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Yes, I'm inclined to agree. Of the 4 main options this was the knottiest. I actually originally built the entire structure and clad it in treated soft wood (spruce I think). That was actually quite pleasing and had far fewer knots. Of course treated timber is much cheaper, but then it doesn't...

Here's what I've found. Here's the cladding newly installed, winter of 2019: This is later in the spring of 2020: By the summer it was getting quite water stained from tannings leaching in the rain as well as sun exposed areas going grey. Unfortunately I don't have a good picture of...

Yeah, go for it! I have to say, if I was building a hipster cabin now I'd probably forego the clean cedar look and just scorch the surface with a blow torch. That carbonised look is pretty awesome in the right place and you can do it lightly to give it a warm aged look, or go fully scorched and...

I was just going through my phone to see what I have. When I get a chance I'll upload pics of it when freshly installed, once weathered, after re-cleaning and finally after applying Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. Will sort it out shortly.

If You're on a budget British WRC is a good choice. You get all the qualities of Canadian cedar (high resin content, stability, etc) however it is much knottier, and blonder than the the Canadian variant. It isn't graded for this reason, but is much cheaper. I paid about £25 per sqm from...

OK, thanks. So the solution is to dry it out again? What worries me is that as a kitchen there will always be a lot of moisture in the air and combined with the drafty door will be subject to continual condensation and peeling paint. Does that Ronseal Damp Seal really work? My stairway (along...

Thanks, that's very interesting, and sounds no less plausible than the fact that it's a leaking pipe. The only thing is this is a kitchen in a house that has been centrally heated from for at least the last 70 years. Not much coal or smoke. The wall was re-skimmed 3 months ago and completely...

No, I don't, but I think I'll have to go and get one.

I'm not sure where the pipe runs. There's the cold water stop cock on the right of the door. And on the left of the door is raiator pipe. Here's a couple of pictures before and after romving radiator and skimming the walls:

As far as I know it's a solid walled detatched house. There is a bathroom directly above, and reason I skimmed and decorated is that about 5 years ago there was a leak upstairs and the kitchen ceiling got ruined. But that was fixed. This damp is a completely isolated spot, not running down the...

Hi all, I had these kitchen walls re-skimmed at the end of November and left it a couple of weeks to dry before applying a 50% mist coat of contract matt emulsion in December. All has been fine then a few weeks later I did a base coat of Little Greene Intelligent Matt Emulsion. Roll on about a...

Thanks, good advice, I'll do that.

I agree, I paid a 15yr veteran plasterer to do it, but he didn't remove the switch. I didn't notice the scour marks under spotlights, but the following day in natural light it cast a shadow and I saw it right away. I've been sanding with 180g but I've just switched to 120 grit and it's making...

Here's the areas where I've scraped away loose paint: And this is completely new plaster: And there are defects I want to fill/smooth where the plaster has left trowel marks and scour lines:

The surrounding paint is vinyl silk. I've sanded it with 180grit and will use zinser bullseye 123 primer before painting my final matt emulsion over it

Hi all, this product says to ensure the surface is clean and dry before applying. In my case I've got patches of bare plaster where I've removed the paint and want to match the level before repainting. I've also got a section of completely new plaster that I want to smooth a bit before mist coat...

Just went up on eBay and picked up a new Bosch Professional Plus Diamond Cutting Disc for just £12 around the corner from my house. Result. Googling the part number (2608600358) brings up some eye watering prices!

Is this the one, at about £15? https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-masonry-tile-turbo-diamond-blade-230-x-22-2mm/3071x or this segmented version: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-masonry-stone-segmented-diamond-cutting-blade-230-x-22-2mm/8098v?_requestid=611167 The stone cutting discs look...

Thanks. I suppose at this price it might be fine to try out, but like you say, a diamond one might cute quicker and cleaner, who knows. Anyone have any recommendations on decent discs in the medium to economy range?

Hi all, I just bought a used Makita 230mm angle grinder and need a disc for cutting a few limestone paving slabs. They're 23mm thick. I notice there are general diamond discs, but also a 'stone cutting' disc which is cheap. Which type would be advisable...