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Yes, reading the tech guidance from Kingspan I understood that cavity was to remain sealed as it forms a closed cell of insulation with the PIR. The studs are 90 - 100mm, so as the PIR is 70mm, and the remaining 20-30mm is supposed to be unventilated I thought. Then there's OSB on the outside...

OK, that makes sense, thanks for your input. The room hasn't been used yet or lived in in anyway, so all the moisture present must have been from the plastering and also screeding, although alarmingly that was a few months ago and there are still huge beads of water trapped in there. I could...

I know what you're saying, however having been sawing through it for the last few weeks I can confirm it really is. In fact you can still smell it from the next street. It is knotty, but I couldn't afford the Canadian stuff, as attractive as it is. This is Western Red Cedar grown in the UK. It's...

Thank you! It's getting there. Now clad in cedar but lot's more to complete: We started cutting through the plasterboard today to start fitting out the sockets, switches and lights though and I think I've made a pretty worrying rookie error. I originally fitted it internally with PIR board...

Doh!

Thanks bsr. Did you use the 18mm red ones? I'd like to use the smallest ones I can get away with because they make quite a hole in your plasterboard, but red or yellow seem recommended for radiators. Incidentally, if the the advertised loads seem a little on the optimistic side it's because...

Well you ask a really crucial question. Here's the product page: Milano Aruba I've called the supplier a couple of times to check and they said it's 12Kg, but didn't sound that sure and presumably were just reading the same info off their website. I think these are basically the same as their...

Thank you both. Yes, having at least one vertical stud to use makes it less of a risk, and actually, being so narrow means that I'm not loading the unsupported side as much as I would be if it was a very wide radiator I guess. The challenge of course is finding and hitting the stud square on...

Hello, I need some advice regarding the fitting of an electric radiator to the wall of my garden room. Unfortunately I didn't anticipate doing this whilst in the design stage and now it's too late to put in adequate support structures. The radiator is 160cm tall by 23.6cm wide: Here is the...

Thank you for the reply. Yes I understand that much, I wasn't proposing to use this for lights or anything else. This is the adapter for one of my cameras. I want to place two of my cameras on just one supply with an output splitter. Hence I was after a recommendation for one which would support...

Hello all, I’m pretty uninitiated in electrics and wonder if this garden installation is possible and what I might need to achieve it. I have a garden room which I am finishing and having wiring put in. I will have 240v external sockets and bare cable that can be wired directly to a transformer...

OK, just to reply to my own post, I'm thinking perhaps a bead of some sort of silicon sealant all the way around the floor between the DPC and the DPM that's on top. Then trim away whatever surplus of DPM there is, but when I come to do the VCL around the walls use double-sided butyl tape to...

I know this has probably been done to death, but the advice and recommendations also seem to change over the years with introduction of new products, etc. Anyway, my DPC/DPM seems to have been done wrong, but I just wanted to ask what I should do next to make it work. It's a small garden room...

This vid at about 3min 30" suggests this can be done with a normal switch in the garden and kinetic one in the house:

I've got no electrical knowledge but need to design a lighting scheme for my outdoor space and garden room. This structure is about 10-12m across the patio from my kitchen. I would like to control the outside lights from a switch in my kitchen, but also like to have a switch on the right wall of...

This is where I am with my small 2m x 3m timber framed garden room. Originally I wasn't going to install a separate VCL and instead rely on fully taping up all my foil faced insulation. However the PIR boards I bought were second hand and many of them are pretty beaten up and punctured. I know...

OK, I think I've got my head around it better now. Cavity 3 (the room!) doesn't really need additional ventilation I believe - it's more for the benefit of the inhabitants rather than the building itself, so trickle vents are sufficient and in the summer the doors can just be opened up. Is...

Thanks for the reply. That clears up a lot, but I've clearly got the wrong end of the stick in terms of ventilation so need to get back to basics and re-learn what I need to do here. There are 3 cavities: 1 - The one between the outer timber cladding and the exterior OSB face. (I'm just using...

Questions questions! This time regarding vapour barrier. As you might tell from the pic above. The OSB on outside of the framing has expanding foam around the edges, which I guess is semi-permiable. On the inside I'm installing foil-faced Kingspan PIR board insulation which I'll attempt to fully...

Thanks for all the advice. My main concern is really heating, not cooling. The garden room is shaded on most sides and only catches the sun in the morning so I suspect it'll be fairly comfortable in the summer. If it is ever hot enough we would simply open out all the doors, so A/C would not be...