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ideally you should tank it - the easiest types are painted on before you tile. This is far more important in a shower area, but can be well worth it for the first 18" above the bath. if you havent fitted your bath yet, silicone the bath to the wall, then tank down to it, tile, then run a very...

yep they are suitable, no issues with heat. If you are doing it yourself then have a look at the 'basics' sticky post at the top of this forum

previous poster is right. Never use pva with modern adhesives it should be acrylic or SBA and absolutely no need to plaster them first. Just get the two walls you are painting plastered, or better yet fully tile it! plastering wont help with flexing boards (which is a non issue anyway)...

it really depends on what the tiles are. If they are a ceramic or a glazed porcelain then no sealer will penetrate and the finish is the finish. If they are an absorbent natural or mad made material then you need to use the right sealer for the job, some should sit on top, others penetrate...

taking the tiles up and retiling shouldn't pose any issues for a wet UFH system - they are laid within the slab itself, use a lump hammer and chisel or an SDS drill with a wide chisel bit and go at an angle from the side so you dont actually dig down into the slab itself. Regarding the...

What is the substrate? if its a wet heating system i'd expect it to be a solid floor is that right?

What kind of shower are you installing? i'm mostly asking because the pipework\electrics will need to be chopped in, so you may be committed to 2/3. Personally i'd try option 2, if you destroy the p/b go with option 3. For option 2 you can use a paint on tanking after removing the existing...

normal scribe and snap will be fine

You may be expecting far more absorption than your going to get. Try just using a lint free cloth to wipe it over, your not trying to put it on thick, it will actually be absorbed into the tile, not lay on top of it. Wipe a thin layer all over, and wipe off any thats not absorbed in 10-15...

Just grout usually

Overboarding with ply - needs to be at least 12mm thick. Alternatively you can use a 6mm backerboard such as no-more-ply. regarding the join, if your leaving the wall tiles then a skirting may be the best option. You could cut skirtings from your floor tiles and use a trim along the top -...

OP - just make sure that if you set the legs to a high setting you aren't starting at a high point in the floor - or you'll have no adjustment left for levelling

i didn't say 4mm notched trowel, i said that the adhesive will end up at roughly 4mm.

yep sounds very similar. Just check it has enough coverage. dont use it on the ceiling - plastered MRP will be fine but would suggest an extractor somewhere.

yep you can get a tanking kit for the shower for under £50. We sell this, but you may find a similar product locally http://www.tradepricetiles.co.uk/adhesives-grouts/tanking-waterproofing/shower-tight-tanking-kit.html its a paint on solution - fit your board, fit your tray and silicone...

I'd say your best not to worry and cut the plinths. The leg adjustment its best used to make sure they are level and the plinth should then be scribed and trimmed to suit. Also you'll probably find that the plinths have a 5mm gap at the top anyway. However...for a tile that size you'll...

true

no benefit - its a worse surface. Prime the plasterboard with acrylic bond and tile straight on. In a wet area though make sure you either use a cement based board (aqua panel etc) or tank the plasterboard. moisture resistant boards aren't much of an improvement over standard ones

Honestly - stay well away from sealing strips. they rarely work and often discolour or collect dirt. they are a very quick way to may your new room look awful in a year or so. I'd suggest the boarded out solution is the correct one. silicone the bath in, then tile over it.

its just blatant isn't it? they haven't even tried. Poor woman