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Looking at getting a new waste for my bath, this one to be precise: http://www.splashdirect.com/detail.asp/sku=SPL1812/c=407/d=31 But I can't make any sense of the technical drawing? 1) 380 + 450 2) 480 + 550 I can see 380 as the height, and I'm guessing the 450 is the total pipe...

Yes it really has taken me 6 months to get back to this area of my house :oops: So I'm just about to tile around the bath which has a shower over it and I'm still confused over the tanking situation. I have a good bit of sika1 solution left, would it be ok to brush this on to the cement...

Yeah I think that's the best route to take. Thanks!

I bought a carronite bath, which isn't flexing, its quite rigid. So we're not talking hugh movement, we're talking a millimetre or two in the vertical sense. It's really just the friction of the sand particles brushing against the edge of the bath which I'd like to eradicate before tiling down...

I mean rendered, sand and cement, not polished, so it has a rough texture. The bath is secured to the wall and the floor, but since it's used as a shower too, when moving within the bath there is bound to be movement. My aim is nothing to do with sealing the bath, just making it totally...

You know when you have a rendered wall and you screw the bath up against it, there will ultimately be some surface friction. Well I was wondering if there is a tape designed specifically to go between the side edge of a bath and the wall to prevent this? I guess you could acheive it using...

Thanks for that suggestion BigBurner, found a nice Mira Excel set :)

Hi, I recently had my bathroom rendered with sand and cement. The plasterer added sika-1 to the mixture whilst mixing. I'd just like to know if I have to still tank the area around the bath/shower? If so can I just brush on the remaining sika neat? Thanks d.

I tested the new central bathroom light and that's works perfectly. Instantly on and no hum :) I've settled on having the light switch outside the room (got back-up on mirror if someone finds it amusing to turn it off while I'm in there 8) ) And I think I'm going to use the pull cord fan...

...also, if I do the whole run in 15mm, I'll still need to increase to 22mm when I get to the bath right.

big-all, does your light flicker on start up? The one I bought for the landing flickers on start up and buzzs afterwards. It's irritates me so much, it's been marked for ebay. Do all 2d bulbs do this?

ok so just to confirm I'm going to try lay this out logically, these are the routes and their associated pipe sizes: Downstairs ------------ Mains supply (25mm) > T-junction (J1 + J2) > J1 (15mm) > Sink > Dishwasher > Washing machine > Boiler. Boiler supplys hot feed to bathroom above...

Last summer I had a plumber in to reroute my water pipes because they were taking a round trip of my house before returning to the bathroom and kitchen (the legacy of an old tank in the loft). Here's my set-up: Mains supply comes into my kitchen via 25mm MDPE pipe. Joined to this is a 15mm...

Tell me big-all, do those lights sit flush on the ceiling? Can't tell from the pictures whether they've got that hidden backend. I chose the light mentioned in my first post mainly because of it's depth. It's the closest I can get to a downlight :) Thanks for sharing with us your techniques...

I kind of agree on the outside light switches, but the idea is to have two lights for two different scenarios. Think of the LED as a night light :)

Until today I had decided that my new bathroom was going to have four downlights controlled by a pull cord switch inside the room, one illuminated mirror feeding from the lights, and one extractor fan wired to the light circuit via an isolator switch situated outside the room. However, today...

At the moment all I have is a central bathroom light with L, N and E. These electrics are at least 20 years old. Do I have supplementary bonding to the lighting circuit already installed? :?

ok so regarding supplementary bonding arrangements... Will this mean the electrician attaching a green/yellow cable from the mirror to the copper pipes below? If so should I fix more capping underneath the mirror so that this cable can also be hidden in the render?

Great - Thanks Spark! Could you explain a bit more about 4 though. What needs to be done there?

Hello, My bathroom has been stripped back to bare brick and before the plasterer comes to render I'd like to run the cable needed to power the illuminated mirror. I have one of these on order...