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If you want something efficient an inset fire is the way to go,look at the valor website,some are up to 89% efficient.The more efficient tend to be glass fronted. But I think you will struggle to find an inset that will fit in that shape of fireplace,they are all rectangular shaped afaik...

What your boiler lacks in efficiency it more than makes up for in reliability,as I said before try and find a good Gas safe engineer who is comfortable working on this type of boiler and get it serviced every year.

As has been said,your bbu should be repairable,what were you told was wrong with it? Phone a few gas safe engineers giving them the make and model of the bbu and ask them if they can repair them before actually calling them out.

If the middle 2 radiants are getting a bit brown,they can always be swapped with the outer ones,this will eventually give a more even look. I think I understand her engineers point,but radiants which aren`t used and are kept stored are far more likely to get lost or broken.

If you are arrogant enough to think you are competent to fit it yourself especially connecting the gas supply,then you`re a f**king idiot and deserve whatever happens.

First of all it`s not smoke,it`s mainly water vapour. Secondly I think a plume management kit is your only option,get your installer back,he should be able to advise you more thoroughly on your options. You cannot put any kind of cover over the terminal.

I find the original reason given for removing your bbu and fire very flimsy.C/H bbus are all fitted with a flue liner within the chimney,it would have been much cheaper just to fit a new liner to the bbu,than replace it with a brand new system. If I discovered fumes in someones lounge,with a...

The copex liner should be removed,this was installed purely because c/h bbus needed them (and afaik their usual lifespan is around 20 years,but they should be replaced if a new appliance is fitted)that`s not to say you won`t need one. Once it`s removed you need to have the integrity and flue...

The manufacturers instructions always take precedence,so if it says 250mm,that`s what it needs. It`s hard to see properly from your photos,but I`d probably be looking at removing that lip of cement and brick bits at the upper rear.

You need to get a properly qualified engineer to check the chimney,contact Gas safe register,they will have a list of engineers in your postcode area who have the fire and lpg qualification. You will probably have to pay for someone to come round and do the necessary tests and to fully advise...

Personally, I would only do that as a temporary fix and order a new lead and as you have a homecare agreement,if I were you I would ask to have the lead replaced.

If you tell us the make and model of fire you have bought it will let us know a lot about what`s going on.

It may need to be serviced,black/sooty marks on radiants are usually a sign of incomplete combustion.

All above points are valid,my first thoughts on hearing of a roaring bbu are a cracked burner,leading to the gas burning inside the burner. You definitely need to call BG back to check it.

This type of decorative fire doesn`t usually need a firebrick,but your gas safe engineer will be able to tell you better for your specific fire. I hope you don`t expect to get much heat from this fire as they are usually barely 20% efficient.

It depends on the inset fire,the good ones have radiant and convected heat,the cheaper ones often just have radiant heat.Some good ones can be almost 90% efficient. Convected heat is expelled via a vent/slot near the top of the fire. Radiant heat comes from the coals and any firebricks...

Usually a fairly straight forward job,without seeing it,a couple of hours labour at most and a few fittings.

Your opinion in this means sfa to me,£85 is IMO a reasonable price for about an hours work including the materials required,if it`s outwith my hometown(not Dundee)then travelling time would be added. As long as you are confident in what you`re doing and you do know what you`re doing why...

15mm pipe to a wall bayonet connection,4ft (preferably)flexi-hose to cooker. Wall bayonet incorporates a shut off valve for disconnecting the cooker for cleaning etc. Stability bracket or chain fitted to rear of cooker. Tightness tests carried out before and after fitting the cooker.Gas rate...

It will probably be a stuck ignition micro-switch,you`ll need a gas safe engineer to inspect it.If it is stuck,it will probably need to be replaced.