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Ran a recharge this morning and then ran boiler for an hour to heat cylinder. Seems the tundish is dry so looks like the recharge did the trick. Took about 40 mins for gurgling to stop and downstairs hot tap to stop. Does that sound right? How often, typically, is a recharge required?

OK so you think I need to do a recharge? I haven't noticed any performance issues. ie. flow at taps and shower all fine. Does the recharge process mean all 250lts will be drained?

Hi guys, I know this is an old thread but I think I have the same problem. Tundish on my megaflo has water running through it when the boiler is heating the cylinder. If I stop the boiler, the flow through the tundish stops. I notice the recharge instructions on the front of the cylinder...

Most definitely, the replacement will be a handle lever.

Good point, it does look as though someone has already done what I'm suggesting. No, it's the cold water feed to two electric showers. (Yes, I know I shouldn't have even touched this valve, and simply used the cock under the sink.) I wasn't expecting the olive to move at all, that's why I...

Hi guys, The isolation valve up in the loft is weaping (from the flat head screw) It's a compression fitting. My question is, can I just replace it with the appropriate sized handle valve? (It's a 22mm) More specifically, can I re-use the existing nuts on the pipework and just screw...

I've now wired it three different ways and the sensor works correctly for each configuration. Its just the override bit that's having none of it. Yea could try a different model from a different outlet I guess.

I've now wired it three different ways and the sensor works correctly for each configuration. Its just the override bit that's having none of it. Yea could try a different model from a different outlet I guess.

Anyone give an insight as to what's going on with this? Can't be two faulty units, surely? I've left it wired up as per the work around that Taylortwocities mentioned earler in this thread but I'd like to know (cos that's the way I am) how to get it working the way the factory intended...

Tried wiring the way I think it should be. Does the same. Tried the way I think the instructions say. Still same. So wired switch and put in parallel as suggested here earlier and it works the way I want it to. Just can't get it to work the ways it was designed.

I'm going to rewire it so that the pir has a permanent live. If that doesn't work then I'll simply put the pir and switch in parallel and use the switch in on position to provide the manual override.

OK this is properly winding me up!!! Got a replacement PIR sensor but it's doing exactly the same as the last one. Could someone please do me a favour and look at the instructions below for me? Are you sure I've wiring it up correctly...

Tried again with the dusk/dawn setting in a different position and the timer increased so its defo out of walk test mode but still not going into manual override. Will whip it out and get it replaced.

I have operated it correctly, in the dark with the switch in the on position. I'll try it again tonight when I get in but I do think it is faulty.

Yes I see what you mean. That does make sense. So it's faulty. I'll get it changed. :oops:

D'OH!! Just had a re-think: The instructions say that to put it into manual mode you either: flick swich off/on off on within 2 seconds, or if you don't have a switch installed then flick the mcb off/on off/on within 2 secs. So flicking the mcb off would defo remove the live...

Sorry to go on about this, but really? I'm thinking of rewiring as follows: Earth to Earth Neutral to Neutral Loop from rose to L on PIR (i.e. parmanent live) L1 from PIR through switch to lamp load. In my mind there has to be a live permanently going to the PIR so that the onboard...

I see what you mean. I guess this is how you'd wire up a PIR that doesn't have the in built override facility. So if you feel that I've wired it correctly then it must be a faulty PIR. Based on that, I'll take it back and get it swapped. I just didn't want to return it if, in fact, I was...

I can see how the switch would provide the pulse, but wouldn't the PIR also need a permanant live connected when the pulse is applied? I'm just thinking along the lines of an extractor fan. That has a permanant live and a switched lived to trigger the overrun timer. To me, it should be...

I've moved the timed dial just off minimum and the dusk/dawn dial to about half way so it shouldn't be in walk test mode anymore. I'm still concerned about how I've wired it. Shouldn't there be a permanent live to the pir?