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I have an aging gas boiler and a fully-pumped heat-only system. It works well, in the sense that with the boiler thermostat at maximum the radiators can just disperse all the heat, so there's no short cycling. I'm under pressure to get a modern modulating boiler, but my concern is this ...

It's usual to power these through the light switch, but you need an extra live supply to run the fan on time delay after the switch is turned off. Another thing you need to think about is whether the lintel above the window would be a problem as regards the hole through the wall.

It's a safety thing, it helps to positively identify it, and it prevents the bare wire accidentaly touching other wires or terminals.

Namsag...what boiler are you referring to as the Gaz new classic ? And how does the 200 quid a year arise ? Thanks...

Thanks, folks for all your helpful replies ! At the moment I'm seriously thinking of going for a Viessmann 100-W Heat Only boiler. I realise it'll cost a bit more, but it seems to be an advanced design in terms of technology and materials. Also it's only 350mm wide and so could easily replace my...

In the next year I need to replace my Glow-worm Fuelsaver gas boiler with a modern wall-hung condensing boiler.The system is fully pumped and open vented, and has pump and all controls separate from the boiler. My problem is that there is a huge choice of models and makes, and warranties that...

Found the upstairs toilet floor with about a centimeter of water, turned out that the cistern was dripping due to a crack. Fortunately the feed pipe had a tap, so I was able to turn it off and empty the cistern before removing it. I hadn't done anythng to it since buying the house twenty years...

My only experience of this was with a stud wall that wasn't supposed to be load bearing, but due to settlement it was. When I removed the last vertical I was so scared I tied a rope to it and pulled it away from a short distance. There was a bit of a thump, but it turned out OK.

I feel the answer is: No, it can't be done.

620sec ?

It's for the convenience of visitors from countries where the mains voltage is in the 100 - 120 volt range.

I think ChrisR's comment is spot on....

Ha, ha....

Probably if you drill a hole in the metal near one end, you would be able to lever the bar out with a screwdriver.

Try putting a bit of insulation tape or similar inside the hinge, then close the door. The marks will show you which screws are causing the problem.

Seems that surface tension prevents the head draining for a while, possibly because it's new and there is some greasy material around. You could try squirting a few drops of washing-up detergent into the head.

Good story, Lectrician, it's extraordinary what some folks get up to....

Yes, the previous owner did leave in a hurry, he died. I think the lesson from this story is that if you do strange or unusual DIY work, bear in mind that at some stage you may cause serious problems for other people.

Myself I'd use two or three of the spring rawlplug thingies...

A noggin is a small amount of alcoholic liquor...