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If they are hemispherical (ish) chrome caps?? They could just screw off - a type of mirror screw, like this... http://www.screwfix.com/p/mirror-screws-8ga-x-1-satin-chrome-pack-of-10/60115

Not completely sure that this would work, but this what I do when refurbing old doors and other similar jobs. Fairly simple - it has to be for my skill levels!! Buy some doweling slightly larger than the hole. Drill through the hole as neatly as possible using a bit the same size as the...

Sorry, but this doesn't make sense... You haven't got the money to spend on a decent bathroom suite from a reliable supplier, but you are prepared to waste money on 'tarting up' the smallest room in the house for a spot valuation so that you can rip it all off when the suite eventually...

Back in my Uni days, we used to cure our test blocks in water. I can't remember at what age we used to put them in the tank, but once in, they stayed there until they were 28 days old. As previously stated, water, or at least a damp environment is good for concrete curing, hence the reason...

Ok, so I might be way wrong here, but this rings alarm bells. If you dig sand in to the foot of the trench you are then effectively laying the foundations on made ground. Will you then need to properly compact it before pouring?

If the boards are warped/twisted/cupped before you start, no amount of clamping (unless you have a steam box) will get the resulting board truly flat. The boards should be 'thicknessed' first, but you could deal with the lumps and bumps once they are all joined together, it can be done with a...

I would rather biscuit than dowel - but I think it could be clamping that is your problem, especially if your edges are straight and true. 3 x 6" planks will need some serious clamping to keep them straight and true. Clamping to keep the width together and to keep them flat. 2 sash clamps...

Was it sold as being water tight? (For that kind of money, one of the first things I would want would be guaranteed dryness.) If so, call out the supplier/installer and get them to fix it.

Hi everyone, I am really sorry if this is blindingly obvious or something I should know, but... Is there an easy way to tell if my house has been built using lime mortar or cement mortar? The house was built in 1904, the mortar is very dry and sandy and almost white in places. My...

+1 30 Inch Bow Saw with a couple of spare blades. I can't justify the expense of a chainsaw and use my Bow Saw lots. As long as the wood isn't too wet/green it will do the job.

A novice's response, but I have recently purchased a router and am still finding all of the amazing things I can do with it... Could you not use a suitable thickness of ply and use a router to cut in the channels? I think this would work, especially if you are planning on a painted finish...

Good point. I think I would rather fiddle in some tiles than try and get an awkwardly shaped vanity unit to look perfect. Floor tiles first it is then, all the way to the walls then get the router and biscuit jointer out. Thanks again, Nigel

Hi PB, My thoughts on fitting the vanity before the wall tiles was to be able to get a really good seal around the top of the unit. Tile down to the worktop, good grout job, bead of silicon, job done? I want the vanity to look built in rather than freestanding, plus it is a bit of a tight...

Ok, so which should I do first? Bathroom/wetroom project. Floor is screeded ready for tiling, wall is stripped also ready for tiling. Next I need to build a bespoke vanity unit to take the sink. The wall tiling is definitely going to be done after the vanity unit is built in. But, what...

Ahhh - Ok. Sorry, I failed to spot the difference. My excuse is that I posted at 6.15 this morning when my few remaining brain cells weren't fully fired up.

Is the answer not - Both! I always find that however much time I spend filling I always see a few patches when I put a coat of paint on top, so I will do a bit of filling between coats. I have been known to put 4 coats with filling in between on a particular 'feature' wall because I wasn't...

Thanks Robbie, I think you are right about the satin rather than gloss, it doesn't need a high shine. Sorted. Nigel

There is an oil-based gloss on there at the moment, and it has served really well. Three kids and several dogs growing up around it hasn't really touched it apart from a few scuffs. I think I will re-paint with oil-based, but just be careful not to get it too thick in the recessed patterns...

Thanks Robbie, Looks like it will be an easier job than I thought then - which is always good news. Just as an aside - what paint would you guys recommend? I don't want anything to 'gloopy' (technical term) as I want to keep as much definition to the Lincrusta as possible. A good...

Hi Guys, When we had the house renovated a few years ago, we had Lincrusta put on the hall, stairs and landing walls up to dado level. The Lincrusta was painted with a gloss paint and looked a million dollars. It is now starting to look a little tired and needs a re-paint. Question -...