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Well thanks to everybody for their input, and Happy Birthday to you, John! I'll do a bit more playing over the weekend and let you know what I find, if anything! Cheers Jim

Which, thinking about it, still wouldn't tell me anything other than my mains voltage. I need a drink. ;-D

Perhaps, but the replacement MCB tripped within 20 minutes!

That was my first thought when I touched it and felt how hot it was. But no, it was all nipped up nice and tight. I've seen a melted MCB (not one of mine) due to loose connections and doesn't look or smell nice! I suspect that it was hot because I reset it a few times before biting the bullet...

No - I put the wiring in myself so I know where it all goes. It's been running fine for 10 years and was checked by a professional so there should be nothing dodgy about it. There is a party wall with my next door neighbour's garage, but none of the electrics run across that wall and he...

Thanks John, My error - when I said "current" I meant "voltage" wrt potential difference across the terminals. I have two circuits coming out of the MCB, in a radial configuration. One of them goes to a single double socket, so I'll check that out, disconnect the other circuit, and try again...

Hi, I have a garage CU that has two MCBs, B16 for mains and B6 for lighting. Recently, the B16 started tripping when the tumble dryer is on. There's an old fridge plugged into the same double socket, which I assumed was the culprit. So I unplugged it, and everything else apart from the dryer...

Thanks all for the replies, I'd forgotten about the MK rectangular box, which is unforgivable as I've used one in the past. Although they seem to have been discontinued :-( You've given me some great options - I've manage to free up maybe 15mm of slack in the cable, which should allow me to...

Hi, I have a 2.5mm T&E cable which is on quite a tight run, ie no real slack in it. I want to run a spur off this, but a standard junction box won't work because there's not enough slack in the cable to feed it into the terminals. I don't have the option of replacing the cable either side...

Bled, and now working. Radiators are warm, family is happy. Many thanks to everyone for your help! Jim

Here are the pics. The boiler enclosure prevents a full shot of the pump end face, but the three ports are definitely blanked off!

I have one of those on the end of the burner, but the ports are all blanks, there's nothing to undo. There are two pipes going into the boiler so I thought it might self-bleed, but I've reset it many times now and no joy.

Sorry, I'm not sure what that means! Is it good news? I think mine is a hex head not allen. Like this.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/thescruff/Electraburner.jpg I'm assuming the pressure gauge port is the thing just to the right and down from the photocell, where the rigid pipe...

Thanks John. So it sounds like I can slacken the flexi pipe to get the worst of the air out without having to spin up the burner on empty, then use the P port to finish the job, pressing the lockout button to get the burner spinning.

All, I ran out of oil at the weekend, have now had a delivery but boiler is in lockout, I assume it needs a bleed. It's a Danesmoor 20/25, using an Electro Oil Inter B11 burner. I've read countless threads on various forums where people have adjusted the pressure rather than the bleed...

Yes, a good yank does the trick. Seems it was "bad workman" all along :oops: Thanks for the replies