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Thanks. There are already two wires in Com, should it take a third? I can see the L1 on the fan has a brown sleeve on but yes, you’re right, not the other wire.

Sorry for delay in posting photos. See attached. I’ve labelled the switches. There appears to be a wire running from L1 in the main light switch to Com on the fan switch. Guessing this is the culprit?

Wow - thanks for quick replies guys. Special thanks to Sunray for the diagrams - I’ll take a photo tomorrow of the switch.

Hi all We have a three gang switch outside our bathroom. One is for a large illuminated vanity mirror, one for the ceiling light and one for the fan (with overrun timer and an isolator switch above door). But, the fan only works if the main light switch has also been switched on. As the...

Hadn’t thought about using multiple pieces of timber. Makes sense. I’m fairly sure it will still fit but will check. Thanks for your quick reply - really appreciate it.

Hi all Re-laying loft insulation in part of the house as there was next to none there. Loft ladder is screwed to a joist height batten - so about 10 cm deep and when it’s pushed up it rested on a length of plywood screwed to the joists. But now I’m putting down a top layer of insulation 17cm...

Thanks for your replies guys. JobAndKnock - yep just been watching a YouTube on that. Eddie - I think so but won’t that mean putting the short side of the wood against the fence so lengthwise it will be sticking out in front of the saw?

It’s ok -sorted - need to subtract 42 from 180 = 138 and divide by 2 = too big for mitre saw!

This is hurting my head. Wife wants those frame things on the staircase wall I think it’s called Wainscoating. The top and bottom follow the slope of the stairs. So I’ve worked out that two of the angles are 42 degrees and two are 138. But I can’t work out what the mitre angles should be to...

Can’t see an issue as such. But they are much narrower than typical loft boards (32cm) so you’ll be doing a lot more screwing. Also - you don’t screw directly to joists - boards should sit above the second layer of insulation.

Hi John Great minds.... that was the first thing I checked and was hoping it was set to ‘low’. Nope - set to high.

Thanks John but our current fan extracts at 52 l/s compared to 31 l/s of the Manrose one you mentioned. Manrose do make a more powerful one at 68 l/s. Timer is already set to maximum.

I've done this plan of the bathroom. Original scale is 1:250 - no idea if posting here resizes it though - but should still be in proportion!

It’s spooky you mention about the airflow. I was reading about that earlier. And yes the most direct route between the door and extractor bypasses the shower. It does have an overrun so that part’s fine. I will have a go at moving the extraction point - thanks.

We inherited my late in-laws house. Among other things, we added gas central heating and a powerful over bath shower. The bathroom is 2.5m x 2.3m so just under 6 square metres. We have a heated towel rail in there and a 100mm Airflow Aventa in-line fan (rated 52 litres per second) ducting out...

Cheers John. I think cardigans are making a comeback

Hi John Thanks for your advice. I understand most of that. Unfortunately, can’t really check bills as until recently we were only living here part time. But yes, forgotten we’ll be using less in summer anyway . My main query was whether that boiler consumption looked right-ish. Ian

I've always left bill paying to my wife and didn't pay much attention to our fuel consumption but not we have a smart meter and I'm suddenly interested :-). I'm surprised by how much gas we are using. The house probably isn't as insulated as well as it could be and that's something we'll look...

Some Powerline adapters have multiple Ethernet ports at the receiver end. I would run a network cable to either the PS4 or Firestick first to see if that solves the problem. If it doesn’t then the issue is obviously in the link back to the transmitter end of the Powerline. If it does fix it...

Thanks for the advice. Going back to your original response, does the single channel design of the receiver mean that even though the supplied transmitter has three buttons, the same button will close and open the door (the opposite of the door’s current position) and presumably means you can’t...