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the cable is being used to run from a heating thermostat back to a control panel which supplies power to heating. will i therefore need specialist soldering? or can i just join the two ends with connectors or by twisting the two ends together (this works with speaker cable)?

Can anyone advise the best way to repair a damaged cable? With ordinary cable i know you can use junction boxes or connector blocks, but i am concerned the position may be different with data cable, as there might be a loss of signal?

assuming the mechanism is broken, if i manage to plunge (or otherwise) get the pug out of the hole, surely i wont have to rip off the panel. instead i can just get a plug witha chain, in the correct size?

has any one got any handy tips for trying to get a plug out of a hole? the plug is a "pop up" in a bath. the pop up usually works by turning a circular knob. the plug (chrome) seems to be stuck, as if someone has pushed it down too hard. the knob moves but is not pushing the plug back up...

bernard, what is inter-conductor capacity?

he hasnt used four core cable, just used three core and occasionally used the non sheathed part of the cable (usually used for earth) and covered this with brown sleaving. so it is very hard to work out where the cables go as they all look the same, ie mostly brown and a few blue.

dont know the electrician's number any more, the wiring was done ages ago. it took me zonks to choose the light fittings!

so, do you think i should try switching the L1 and L2 cables around? in case they are the wrong way round? they seem to be the same colour on both switches? or do you think that the cable from the com in the second swtich is not going to the right place? any practical solutions are greatly...

my electrician installed the cables and switches for the wall lights. i am now just second fixing the lights to the cables. the problem is that two wall lights (with two way switching) won't work. when the switch is turned on, the voltmeter reading says 198. i normally get a reading of 250...

re the point that the contactor might be worn down/faulty, the noise only happens when i let power go through it in other words, if i turn the breaker off but the thermostat calls for power then the contactor opens as if its letting power through to the heating mats (but of course, no power...

thanks in response to securespark, i have turned the power off at fuse board and at the control panel and opened the panel. do you mean i should open the contactor up too?

the equipment, ie the contactors and the wiring going into them and to the breakers dont look distressed. they all look fine.

the contactor isnt old. everything is about a year old. however, the room in question did, last year, have differnt underfloor heating which had a fault (namely the wires crossed and got damaged, causing the trip to go on this). could this have caused the contactor to become worn? moreover...

i have electric underfloor heating at home and a three phase supply. the power goes from the fuse board into a control panel. the control panel contains 9 contactors, each with their own little fuse and each one controls the underfloor heating in a different room. when the power is called by...

the installation is in the bathroom, and the switch is outside the room. the fan is about 4 metres away from the shower part of the room, on the external wall. the fan i have is just a cheap one from b and q. i can swap it if i need to. the one i have is therefore a "marley" standard model...

the wiring for the fan comes off the lights circuit. the switch is not a special fan isolator switch. the switch designated to the fan is the same as any ordinary light switch. that switch will turn the fan on or off, when required, so my problem is finding a fan that is suitable to run off...

does anyone know of a tool that can be used to scrape excess adhesive out of floor tiles, before grouting? is the removal of such adhesive necessary for a water proof finish?

hi my electrician has simply left me with a switch on the wall, wired to the hole where the extractor is to go. there is no fused spur. the switch will operate the fan only as there is another switch for the lights. is there a fan i can buy which does not require a fused spur, so that...

come on guys. stop taking everything so seriously!! it was only meant to be banter, something to take the boredom out of the fact that we are discussing pipes at nine pm on a friday night!

thanks nige f. need a bit of reassurance now and then!!