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There’s a lot of variances, which would make it very difficult for anyone to give an exact answer. Even if the wall had been previously painted the likelihood is that it would still need sealing with a good quality stabilizer. If it was painted more than a few months ago it would be a good...

It sounds to me like your decorator never sealed the surface before painting. Painting external walls is a multi task job, you don’t just go at it with a paint brush.

Last year I had to strip a whole room of wood-chip that had been painted over hundreds of times. I tried spraying, steaming, scrubbing, scratching and anything else you can name. In the end I got hold of a big, professional steamer from a friend. I filled it with water and switched it on...

Blimey, that's cheap. What B&Q is it?

The Hitachi sliding mitre saw is a £260 saw. Are you sure the one in B&Q was the sliding saw? I’ve had a quick look at their website and the one that they do for £170 is the chop saw, not the sliding saw.

Thanks Tony, Great feedback. I’m about three weeks from treating myself and it looks like it’s the Rage for me. Does it have the depth of cut to mitre a skirting board? Any other comments now you’ve played with it over the weekend? eBey, which I hate, has some Dewalt saws on there...

Sooo, it looks like it only tips one way - bugger! The Rage looks like it'll only tip one way as well. I think I'll wait some feedback from Tony. His saw is due to turn up today.

There's a substantial cost difference between the 10" and 12" SIP. Is it worth spending the extra £50 for the extra cutting distance and the extra 400w capacity motor? It's not clear whether you can tip the blade to 45 degrees either way, to save you having to flip the work over. It does...

Typing it properly might have helped - I meant Erbauer.

Sorry to jump onto your thread, but I’m in the process of buying a compound sliding mitre saw, I need to fit some skirting boards, and other general DIY stuff. I posted a question on the Tools board, but before shelling out something like £150 - £180 I thought I’d ask here, seeing as how this...

Its difficult to say without really knowing the situation. You don’t say that you put up a mist coat first, but went straight for undercoat. I’m not sure if the undercoat was the mist coat. If you just went at the walls with paint then this will probably explain the peeling. Was the...

Usual disclaimer first - I’m not a professional, just a fairly experienced DIYer. But in the absence of professional replies here’s my 2p worth: Take the cracked and peeling paint off with a scrapper before you sand. As with so many things you get what you pay for. If you buy cheep...

I’m not a painter, but I have painted sash windows and it’s a right pain. One bit of advice is to scaffold the building and charge the customer. You can’t really do any kind of decent job like this off a ladder.

Nothing makes doing a job more fun than using a power tool and like most blokes I make sure I’ve a power tool for every occasion. I have a petrol chainsaw. It’s a Stihl and is great. I’ve an open fire and get wood off a mate, so I get my money out of it. I’ve never used an electric saw, but...

Providing the pots are airtight then you should be alright. Mould in the waterbase paint will be your enemy, but providing it’s done no more than separate then a good (and I mean good!) stir will sort it out. The oil based paint should be fine. It’ll have separated, but a stir will bring...

I’ve done this with my washing line posts. I used the proprietary Hammerite red undercoat followed by Hammerite top coat. It’s stood the test of time. Incidentally, Hammerite have changed their formula. I took a tin back to my local paint shop because it was very thin and had nowhere near...

First the usual disclaimer - I am not a painter, decorator or professional. I am a DIYer of reasonable ability. You need to paint the door quickly to stop it swelling and warping; and while I’m on the subject I must say how important it is to seal the whole door, including the top and...

Morning Pioneer, As no one else has replied to your post I thought I’d jump in, although I have little to offer. Firstly I should admit to not being a plasterer. I can plaster and have plastered whole rooms in my house that are good enough to paint over, but not professional quality and...

Assuming that this freshly rendered house it clean you can start attacking without the need to clean it first. The usual first step would be to go over each wall and remove loose, flaking paint and repair any damage. Then you sugar soup the walls clean. The next step is where you need to...

I live in a small 1930s mid-terraced house. The front door is original and I like it. It fits with the house and adds character, unlike the various double-glazed doors along the road. The trouble is that it is beginning to show too much character. At some point the door has been planed down...