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OK, in detail then, the plans had a note to the builder, block up gate opening to match existing wall. These 1st plans had a garage in front of this opening, garage was moved in 2nd plans but note remained. Note was converted to a planning condition, hence planning condition says that the...

Yes I know how long ago it is. And yes I could apply for planning permission but LDC is cheaper isn't it? 50% of planning fee if you ask in advance. The removal of PD rights wasn't the direct intention, the wording was just poor and this is the effect. In fact the whole thing was a total...

I have a planning condition from 1986 (hence the need for the 1985 guidance) which I believe is ultra vires. In effect it removes PD rights on part of my front boundary wall. I'm thinking of applying for LDC to establish that PD rights apply to the whole wall and thus the condition is void as...

Hi, As it says in the subject I'm looking for a copy of: DoE Circular 1/85: The use of conditions in planning permissions I can find the later 11/95 circular online but not the earlier one. Planning inspectorate don't have a copy either, I've asked. Thanks

What is basic tapin mix?

I've used Wickes stuff and I like it. I just used GTEC ready mix and find that is soft compared to the Wickes stuff. Easy to sand but marks/dents easily. The COSHH leaflet says Wickes stuff contains mica and silica so I'm guessing that's why it is harder.

Hi, Anyone familiar with knauf joint compounds? I've used Wickes readymix joint compound (220995) which has the knauf brand on the COSHH datasheet so I'm guessing this is a knauf product rebranded. I need a lot so I want to buy it in 20kg tubs and Wickes only do 10kg ones. Does anyone know...

Another thought, would I be better extending the MDPE pipe? I could bury that in the screed/slab. I could put the joint the soil pipe. That might make it easier to to block that with a concrete plug. Maybe stainless steel screws through the soil pipe so the concrete has something to hang on...

Hi, Due to an extension the cold water into the house comes up in the middle of the kitchen floor. This was done in a previous extension, now uncovered for the further extension. The water in was extended to wall in copper (I think there might have been a bit of plastic pipe of that). This...

hmm, well, rules of thumb are ok but I prefer to do the maths. The key element is how much pre-charge you leave in. EVs come set to 1.5bar it seems but you only need enough to ensure the highest point is under positive pressure. 1bar is 10m and typically EV might be half way up the wall too...

I came across this from Altecnic The +1 to each of the pressures must be the atmosphere to change relative pressure to absolute. I guess the +0.3 is to give something in hand on the size of the vessel, or the setting of the pre-charge pressure, or both.

Well spotted! That makes a big difference. Precharge would be say 1bar, then + 1bar for atmosphere, 2bar absolute. Reduce 8l to 4l doubles that from 2bar to 4bar absolute or 3bar relative once you take away atmosphere. So 8l doesn't really work for 100l CH (which is what manufacturer told...

Should have said door is uPVC so DPM under door would not be needed since sill is plastic.

What fits and assumptions I would guess. Instructions probably says installer should check EV is big enough and fit second one if not.

Hi, There seems a lack of god information on this so I thought I'd put together this post. As hot water expands then in a sealed CH system you need an expansion vessel to allow for this. C Factor 85 0.0324 90 0.0359 95 0.0396 100 0.0434 85C is the hottest the water should be but to play...

The DPM should do that but it is damaged so only comes up the vertical face. The polystyrene is squishy though so I can feed a bit of DPM down to overlap it. I think I might also put a squirt of sealant down between the DPMs too to stop any wicking. Flooring won't be tiles. Current plan is...

Hi, I have a problem with my extension and the door and the floor. The floor is currently like this As you can see the blocks are below DPC and the cavity has been filled too. The DPM comes up the inside of the block and that is my damp barrier (blue line). If I just scree to the front door...

Ahh, found it. It is a hunter DS25.

The adaptors like the DC2-BL are finned like a WC connector so fit just like a wc connector into bare 110mm pipe. The on top they have a rubber seal for the 40mm pipe. See...

The old ikea units were ok as they were about the same dimensions as other kitchens, 16cm underneath. New ones are stupid as they are based on 20cm, so doors, 20,40,60, no 50, no 30. For U shaped kitchen you could end up with 19cm of filler panel! And the bottom shelf is 10cm off the floor...