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And btw the way, DIY gas isn't illegal: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=863266#863266

Only person with an attitude is you. I asked a simple question, instead I get a lecture about getting a corgi registered plumber. I have nothing against plumbers, but in my experience they're aren't cheap and it's hardly beyond the limits of a decent DIYer, moving a cooker hob. I was just...

:roll: If I took that view with everything I wouldn't attempt anything at all. I thought these were DIY forums. Perhaps all talk of gas fittings should be banned because DIYers just aren't supposed to do it.

He'll also have the jar of Vaseline that he hands me right before he gives me the bill no doubt. I'm going to move the hob whether you agree or not. I've worked with gas before. I've just never used a cooker hose, just want to learn.

Is it possible to ask a question without getting this response?

I have to move a cooker hob. It has a 1/2" nut connection on it. What type of cooker hose do I need? If I buy a bayonet hose like this: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12279/Plumbing/Gas-Fittings/Bayonet-Cooker-Gas-Hose-1200mm I assume I also need a Bayonet elbow like this...

We were hoping to have underground parking in the house we're currently designing (demolish and new build job). The water table gets to about 5-6ft below ground level, we know this because in the old house the cellars flood when it rains. My architect seems to think that because of the high...

The only way we can get 'hot' water from our boiler is to adjust the isolation valve that's on the cold water inlet just before it goes into the boiler. If I close the valve slighlty we can get what I'd call hot water. The problem is when the valve is half open/half closed it makes a right...

Usually when I build timber walls or dry line a wall with timber as I have being doing today I would always construct the timber so that every single edge of the plasterboard sits on a batten. However, today I've dry lined a wall ready for 1800x900 plasterboard after I removed a chimney...

I needed to chisel a couple pockets into one of our internal walls today for new joists to sit in. Bricks are very old (150yr) and the wall in question was the party wall, 2 courses thick. I used lump hammer and bolsters. Took some time and effort to get the pocket to a couple inches...

I had exzema as a kid. Now everytime I do anything remotely physical or dusty with my hands they cut up and get dry/broken skin very easily. I started wearing disposable latex gloves under work gloves which helped a lot but now I seem to have developed an allergic reaction to them and can't...

It's in a safe zone. Basically someone has instead a single socket about 7 foot up the wall. I need to move it directly downwards to a normal level but there's not enough cable to pull down. I've never done a crimped joint before, I could use a blank plate though as it's only in a pantry area...

I need to extend some 2.5mm t&e mains cable, the join will be hidden away (for ever) behind plasterboard. What's the correct method of extending it? simple connector block and then cover with insulation tape?

Have air bricks already, I'm putting in more. Still not enough. The problem is the cellar lets in water and the vapour from it rots the woodwork.

What type of screws/nails should I be using in a damp cellar? There's lots of water vapour in the air. I'm fixing treated timber, will galvanised nails rust? I also have some quicksilver screws from screwfix and some zinx coated multi prupose screws but not too sure which to use?

sorry, mobile phone was what I had in my hand at the time! I've now wrapped a bit of lead over the top of the overflow tube to add a bit more weight and it works fine

I think I've figured out the exact flaw with the variflush valve. The installation requires that you cut off some of the overflow tube to set the correct overflow level, this in itself is fine. HOWEVER, by cutting off some of the tube you're also reducing the weight of the tube which means...

I bought a Variflush valve to replace the cheapo one that came with our toilet (it leaked around the washer that held it to the cistern)....here's the new one I bought: http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=JZSZZBLN2CDSSCSTHZOSFFY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=variflush&x=0&y=0 This...

The donut was fine before assembly, it's simply of a matter of it being compressed and not returning to its original shape

Correct, the back of the cistern isn't vertical. I had to use 2 x 3mm packers when screwing it to the wall because the lid wouldn't fit on IF the back of the cistern was up tight to the wall. The donut isn't even a problem yet, the flush value is leaking WITHOUT the donut on: Flush valve...