Search results

Thanks for your replies. The 3A supply is fed from the shower supply, it's the isolater being engaged that triggers the feed. I think I'm going to go with my proposal as a solution to the correct way to fail if both units operate at once (a very likely scenario as we often shower at times...

The situation is an electric shower (9.5kw@240V, 10mm2 cable, 9m long, conduit and clipped direct, no thermal insulation) and electric boiler (10kw@240v, 16mm2 cable, 10m long, clipped direct between floors). To prevent overloading the 100A main fuse, the shower and boiler are connected using...

TLC sell them. Why not get the supplier in and get a free (in some regions) isolator put on the supply - that way you could isolate the box before you work on it - crazy idea I know :roll:

In a cloakroom (sink and toilet), do you form zones, similar to bathrooms. I've had a quick look but haven't found the definitive guide as the are many sites with incorrect bathroom zone diagrams. A friend at work, with some credibility as he DIY built his own house (literally, not just...

Just a question - not planning to do anything myself. Does a CU require an isolator module and an RCD if all the circuits are on the RCD (ie isolator->rcd->mcbs)? The reason for doing this would be to free up extra MCB space or to allow for a pre-17th split load box to have two RCDs (one for...

How is replacing a shower covered by part P? Is it notifiable as it's in bathroom, or exempt for some reason?

What are the answers to the questions in that image (up the thread). Are they D, C, B ?

Bump. Any opinions - plumber is coming tonight so maybe he might know.

I'm having some cabling replaced later this week, but I need to plan the logistics. The shower cable and immersion cable need replacing (one because it's been badly wired, the other because I have the opportunity now and it will complete the re-wiring). Providing it is electrically safe I...

Mrs. Wagner's Pies - "from a religious conviction" LOL visiting from Stumble

The timer on the fan is only about 5 mins. So you get out shower, pull cord and fan goes off. The extractor is only used for the shower cubicle, so it's pulled after exiting. We've never had any confusion. There used to be a light on the circuit but we had this removed when we had some...

No, I have a label that says "Protective Multiple Earth". And it's not a bodge - had elec board out recently for main fuse upgrade and they didn't say anything. Also the cable is exactly the same and the cables to the meter (size, colour, appearance). So it probably is TN-C-S. Just wondered.

The "block" is on big unit with the fuse. The cable comes in below, the earth block is on the Left, the Live in is in the middle with the fuse inline and the N is to the right. The cables to the CU or meter (for Earth) come out the top. The cable between the N and E is on the top - ie there are...

I have an extractor fan on it's own (not linked with light). The switch is in the bathroom, the extractor fan is in a cupboard not accessed from the bathroom and the supply is in the loft above. The current setup is actually a mess of cables but essentially comes down to: 1st floor light...

The supply comes in encased in lead pipe. This appears to have a L and N. The lead casing goes to Earth block. Then earth bonding and earth from CU connect to this block. The L goes to meter and on to CU, the N goes to meter and then CU but there is also a cable between the N and the Earth...

Why cut the neutral bar? What stops you supplying the two N supply sides of the two RCD straight from the protected side of the isolator? Then use the two existing neutral bars as one for each RCD. You only have a problem if you need two RCDs + some unprotected circuits - ie a 3 way split box.

Why can't this be upgraded? If the tails go into the CU and connect to the isolator and then you use two cables from the N and L (isolated side) to the top of two RCDs. The N from each of these to a different N block (it is a split load box in the OP). Then cut the buzzbar to give you the two...

The reason it's 3.4kw in France and 2.8w in the UK is that the French turn the heat up to 11 whereas we brit's don't like to caramalize too much so we only go to 10 :-)

I did a quick search and found an explanation for their origin but not an answer to this: Why would you choose a 13A FSU -> 15A unswitched round-pin socket rather than the same but to a 13A unswitched standard socket? Is it just to limit what someone might plug in? The places I've seen...

£50 to a competent electrician is better than £30 to a dodgy one. In fact if that's £50 inc VAT then he'll see less than £35 after taxes. Whether £50 to a competent sparky instead of DIY to the rules is another matter. The council should offer a subsidised inspection service for small jobs...