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Yes, definitely a stopcock - (what else might it be??). I understand stopcocks sometimes seize if left fully on or off for a lengthy period but this was fine a few weeks ago. And it's a very basic mechanism - screw on, screw off.

Thanks for that speedy reply - so loosening the stuffing nut (if possible) may help. I appreciate replacing the stopcock would solve the problem too - but believe me, that's far easier said than done. The location is very confined and awkward, and the nuts either side of the stopcock are part...

I have a stopcock inside a kitchen cupboard which isolates an outside tap. A couple of weeks ago the stopcock worked fine. More recently it would only do about a quarter turn from off to on. Now it is off and refuses to turn more than a fraction. I don't understand how this problem has developed...

Seek and ye shall find! These apparently came from SFix some years ago - they still stock them but for some reason the top screw hole is now located in the centre rather than the left of centre??

I suppose everyone has their preferred methods. In my case the new hole worked out in the centre of the dowel (exactly as planned?!). I've certainly used toothpicks to fill out a rawlplug when it's become loose - that seems to work. So far I've still got all my pinkies! Thanks for your advice.

Yes, I think they're steel and could be 1.5mm thick (1/16"). I've already come across being 2-3mm out with an old chrome hinge I tried - I'm not sure tooth picks and glue would work in that situation? In that instance I enlarged the hole, glued in a 9mm dowel, and drilled into it. And that's why...

Thanks for both bits of information above. Actually it was the 72mm that confused me. 4" x 3" seemed a natural Imperial size to me which would be about 102 x 76mm or nicely rounded to 100 x 75mm. Having said that, my existing hinge (which I'm sure is Imperial) does measure about 100 x 72mm...

Thanks for your suggestions. I had actually considered those options. Of course I would be countersinking into existing countersinks on the opposite side with the risk of a large hole or certainly a very weak area as the hinges are only about 1mm thick. With regard to new screw positions these...

Thanks for your reply. Sorry, the only thing I didn't mention was the size - they're satin steel 101 x 72mm (not sure equivalent Imperial size?) and they're also from SFix, costing about £1 per pair. The ones you mention certainly seem to have a similar hole pattern - their size is slightly...

Hi – I have conservatory doors which open outwards into the garden. I have replacement hinges of similar size but for the screw positions to match the existing hinges I would need to reverse them which would of course place the countersinks on the inner face? To elaborate: the 3-knuckle side of...

Thanks for that information. It's good to at least get the right materials, especially when you're not highly skilled. I can appreciate it's worth your while using pre-mixed paste as you're a professional decorator. Actually I think I've left my brush in the bucket, I'll go and take it out! I've...

Thanks for your reply. Yes, you guessed right, it is Solvite (extra strong all purpose). I suppose it could be a rogue batch as I see many decorators, like yourself, swear by it (and at it?!). Have you switched to ready-mixed or another brand? Some decorators say ready-mixed is far superior but...

Hi all - I recently used a well-known wallpaper paste. It was good for up to 10 rolls mixed with 7L of water but as I was only using 2-3 rolls (of lining paper) at most I mixed up half the paste with 3.5L of water. At the end of the second day the paste had turned very watery and I doubted it...

I've since discovered this is a debatable topic. An electrician may intend to deal with an entirely electrical boiler problem but not be qualified to remove the cover. it also seems to depend whether the cover is acting as a seal or is purely for noise insulation. With my Greenstar 18Ri boiler...

Thanks for your fast reply. That's a pain and a lot of expense. I have to say when the boiler was serviced a few weeks ago the guy was fairly casual about replacing the cover, it was hardly a precision operation and he didn't make any subsequent check on the soundness of the seal. The boiler is...

Hi all - I have a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 18Ri (non combi) boiler and intend to drain the system to carry out some work. I noticed that refilling requires the boiler to be vented through an airvent and an attached tube that has to be routed away from any electrical components. There is no...

Hi Stem - One last comment and, bearing in mind your line of work, it's probably telling you something you already know? On a YouTube video a guy diagnosed the problem with his Honeywell ST9400C programmer as a failed capacitor - costing less than £1. It didn't have sufficient voltage to...

Hi Stem - I'm so so sorry that I've unintentionally misled you. I've checked today and there are in fact FOUR wires to the programmer and exactly as you said - to L, N, 3 & 4. So much for being 99.9% sure! - the only (flimsy) excuse I can offer is that one wire is an earth (in colour) but of...

Yes, very strange. You've got me thinking and worried! - just as I was patting myself on the back. Regardless of the wireless thermostat the CH must need a connection to the programmer to tell it when to come on and off? But I'm 99.9% sure there were only 3 wires to the programmer backplate - 2...

Hi Stem - You may find a follow-up of interest to the original query you answered for me. It seems the new (ST9500C) programmer has done the trick ie CH and HW are on together! One thing I'd noticed with the old programmer (ST9400C) was that if CH was on and I pressed the "extra hour" button...