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Hi again Burnerman (if you happen to see this) - is the brass disc/peg an integral part of the change over mechanism? What I mean is when I undo the nut/boss that holds the change over spindle into the tap body, will the peg also turn? If so, is that a problem? Can I undo boss as the first job...

Thanks for that. If you're still looking.... can the splined shaft unit (to which the diverter handle is attached) be easily removed even if the handle is difficult to turn? I'm wondering what happens as the peg at the opposite end (presumably) turns?? Does it engage with the white plastic...

Thanks again. Not surprised you can't remember, I think it was at the beginning of the year and taps have passed a lot of water since then!

Thanks. Maybe plumbing is his only weak DIY area?! Certainly took extremely good photos and had the gumption to strip the tap as far as he could. Taking taps apart is not an everyday job for us mere mortals! Unfortunately, mine is long beyond guarantee but I'd be annoyed if it was a simple fix...

Hi - did you eventually fix this mixer tap or exchange/buy a new one?? Asking becos I've got the same problem!!

Thanks to you both for the advice. I notice Burnerman you've been giving good advice for some years and helped a guy some time back with a Screwfix mixer tap ("turn operation not working"). That guy attached photos - one seemed to be the disc with a peg?? You said to prise off a clip below...

I've got a Bramham bath shower mixer tap - the classic type like the old cradle telephones. It has a lever between the taps which is swung one side or the other to change from bath to shower - this has become incredibly difficult to move. I'm not familiar with the internal mechanism - is this...

I'm surprised there's not more responses to this basic query, am I just impatient (in which case I apologise - responses were very quick in the past)? It MUST be a problem that crops up quite often?? Surely not everyone replaces the taps AND the bath as the bath is likely to outlast the taps...

Thanks again. Although I'm thinking that for £360 I could buy a decent pair of ordinary bath taps and possibly have enough left for a separate electric shower.

Thanks again. My existing bath shower mixer is made by Bramham (not a dissimilar name?). First one I looked at in the Bristan range (1901) is very like it. When a manufacturer gives you a technical drawing, you know you're looking at big bucks - the 1901 is £360! Perhaps that's the price of...

Hi - thanks for speedy reply. It would be a bit limiting to be confined to one range (and probably not obtainable from usual DIY stores). It doesn't answer underlying question - I'm sure the various manufacturers place the taps at specific centre?? Regards.

I need to replace my bath shower mixer tap - the bath has two tap holes. The tap is not "ancient" but could be 20+ years old. As best as I can measure, hot and cold taps are at 170mm /7" centres. Is this a standard measurement or do new mixer taps have an arrangement to cope with slightly...

Thanks for that. I can't comment as I have zero practical experience although I'm surprised none of the miracle flexible sealants fit the bill. But the reason for some confusion is that on similar threads here, some advise you can't get a decent joint unless you use taper edge boards. I went to...

Thanks for all advice. Sorry to labour the point - I've yet to see taper edge plasterboard as my local DIY store only had square edged. Is board tapered on all 4 sides or just along long edges? If short sides ARE square edged, is it advisable to create a bit of a chamfer (what's the best tool...

Regarding using plasterboard on a ceiling and looking at other threads, if I get the whole area skimmed does this also take care of joints or are joints still taped and filled, prior to skimming?? If I do need to do the joints do I need to be especially fussy feathering edges etc. or will...

Looking at other threads, if I get the whole area skimmed does this also take care of joints or are joints still taped and filled, prior to skimming?? Also if I'm butting square edges of cut board, do I give the edges a bit of a taper (what with?) or no need to bother?? This job now taken on...

Thanks for your encouragement! Actually the kitchen is L-shaped - 9' is longest dimension and joists run at right angles to it. Other dimension of main area is 7' so even with 8' x 4' sheets, would be a few joins. If woodchip or similar is "not an option", are you suggesting a skim coat? - I'd...

Thanks for that - whatever will they think of next!!

Thanks to you both for additional advice. Nice dog! - what's his name? I've read that you countersink the screws but without going thru paper backing, which must be quite a fine divide (or does plaster compress a little when screwed into?). I originally had a painted pine-cladding ceiling...

Thanks for your quick reply and advice. So it looks like there's no ducking out of scrim tape and filler at joints, but at least caulk around perimeter. Advice I've seen elsewhere suggests 3 layers of filler, progressively wider and feathering the edges (which is probably easier to say than...