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Hi all I have these 24cm x 12cm x 3.2m timber, that I want to cut lengthways via the short edge (as per yellow line in picture) Problem - a standard circular saw isn't deep enough to cut through, even if I cut both sides. Does anyone know of a decent jig I could use with a chainsaw? The cut...

They didn't. Rads were cheap!

Ignore me - I've got it. Need to buy a bleed valve and blanking plug separately.

Hi all Installing a new rad. I can connect it to the water supply no probs. But where are the bleed/air valves? Do I need to buy separately?? Picture attached. Valves are like this on the left and right sides of the rad Thanks!

The DPM was applied only a cm or so up the wall. I can see a very thin line of it just above the level of the Self-leveling compound, but not any higher. As you say, it needed to be painted up the wall much higher

Agree. It goes up to juuuust level with the latex

Unknown at time of writing - it's the next door neighbors garage. Probably same level as my garage. Picture shows where the houses 'join' There's nothing coming directly from the celling into the room, though I obv don't know what the other side of the brickwork is doing

Hi all. Any help much appreciated Had latex floor - and liquid DPM - laid yesterday in garage. Floor shows some signs of damp at the edges (see picture) How bad is it? Is it still possible to lay vinyl tiles over, or should I get the walls injected no matter what? It was - and still is -...

Amazing, thank you. I've actually got a selection of those bits coming from Wealden today/tomorrow. Would my original plan of routing "past" the corner, guided by a screwed-on fence, and then tidying-up/filling the excess not work? I'm aware the method is faffy, but as long as it's not too...

Quite like the look of this, actually. Cheers. Looks easy to use and isn't overly-complicated like the router

After reading Notch's sensible comments, I also wondered about paint, too! I might practice a couple of methods, with paint as back up. Another forum suggested a scratch stock?

I'll temporarily attach a wooden fence with a few screws to the front of the shelves, and run the router against that, making the grooves one by one. Then once the grooves are complete, I'll remove the fence and fill the little holes. What's your solution? And thank you again for the advice

Agree. I plan to run the router (or whatever) up in a straight line a little bit past the corner, then fill in the extra bits I don't need with filler.

Cheers. How could I keep the cut true? I assume - as suggested - attaching some very straight guides for the router to move along, and then just making sure I start and stop in the right place?

Hi all I have some shelves that look too 'blocky'. I don't want to add decorative trim. Instead I'd like to cut some thin (2mm) grooves around each shelf edge (as per the pen markings on attached pictures). How could I do this? I figure a very thin router bit - and some carefully-placed tracks...

Superstar, cheers

Hi all Am attaching a pine fascia to raw MDF edges, on a large self-built bookcase. Am planning to glue and nail the fascia to the MDF, before finishing and painting over. Do I need to prime the raw edge before I glue, or can I go straight to glueing? Cheers all

Cheers it worked! Just very strong springs

Tried it! It's either old/stuck or some other way

Howdy all How do I temporarily remove these spotlights so I can paint/amend the ceiling (without having to 'circle' around the light fixture)? Normally I'd just pull the downlights from the ceiling (via the sprung arms) but these seem attached in a different way Any help much appreciated