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Perhaps a daft question, but does plasterboard adhesive bond well to plaster? I want to dot & dab the reveals of a window with PB, I’ve done the top and bottom with PB adhesive as they were bare block but the sides are old plaster which I don’t really want to knock off. Will PB adhesive work...

Typically you need a mini expansion vessel in the DHW inlet to the boiler if there's a non return valve in the inlet pipework somewhere preventing water expansion back down the mains - e.g if you have a water softener. Otherwise when you turn off the hot tap, the boiler continues to heat the...

I didn't bother with any sand at all in mine. I think the sand is just to protect the pipe from rocks and sharp objects in the ground when you fill back in. If you're just digging into soft clay/earth, what would be the point? Mine was all soft clay and I didn't bother with any sand at all...

Great, thanks. One question - why do you suggest 1/4 the weight of the bath? If it's dead centre over the top of the supporting wall and sitting on those 2 joints, wont the lintel be taking 1/2 the weight?

As further context, the other ends of these joists on the other side of the room (the alternative location for the bath) are seated on the flange of an RSJ like this It seems to me that if I put the bath on this side of the room then the entire load is being taken by the flange of the RSJ...

Hi all, Just redoing my upstairs bathroom and have moved a stud wall to make it a bit bigger. I also want to move the bath (1700 x 800) to the other side of the room. This would place it dead over the top of the supporting wall below which has a doorway in it. The bath legs would be supported...

Looks like a decent job from here, well done (y)

I bought one just to do a load of fencing/gates around my place, only using Paslode 50mm ringshanks though. I just bought the tool (<£300 from FFX on ebay during one of the 20% discount code offers) and as this is the only DeWalt tool I own, I bought a chinese £15 adapter to use a couple of my...

Bluetooth can be quite poor for this sort of thing - they can have substantial latency if not using e.g. AptX codec. Not a problem when used for music etc but for TV you get slight lip sync issues which will be extremely distracting.

Well, quite. I'd be hesitant to just screw let alone nail them!

The yellow ones are pozidrive, I have 2 of these sets, I've used them for years for both mechanical work and domestic DIY, good quality. You need this set https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/screwdrivers-and-hex-keys/halfords-advanced-8-piece-screwdriver-set-250365.html

Perhaps, and I may add more. Again the NHBC standards were my guide here. I do want to support the egger boards next to the wall anyway.

They overlap where they are supported by a load bearing wall. 100mm each side of the wall (more or less) As per the NHBC standards. According to this they only actually need be nailed together.

It's expected with this house. It's like one of those cars you end up with that every time you go to do some minor maintenance job or fix something you find someone has been there before and rounded off every bolt head, broken lugs and clips off and left bits out.

Right, spent some of my weekend getting this sorted. Ended up cutting 2 of the joists all the way back to the supporting wall (internal so no need for damp proofing) - the rotten one plus the one next to it which was quite badly twisted. Repacked/reinforced the joint to the RSJ and added some...

Hi all, Just renovating my upstairs bathroom (have another downstairs so time is not so much of the essence in this case, fortunately) The upstairs bathroom seems to have suffered long term leakage (which was the reason that I had to pull down the kitchen ceiling below) due to the comically...

When you say 'backing boards' - if you mean hardie backer or equivalent cement board, you cant dob and dab it directly to the wall anyway. Well, you can, but they wont stay there, you'd need to mechanically fix through the dabs as well. Easiest way for battening in my experience is just use...

Oh, and I ignored the instructions where they said to completely cover all areas with the membrane before tiling. Really? Put the membrane on the floor, then walk all over it while tiling the walls? Nah. My process: 1 - Applied all the corner strips 2 - Applied WG to the walls only 3 - Sealed...

My understanding is that the primer is used to seal/stabilise any dusty or porous surfaces such as plaster or screed. I can tell you that the butyl waterguard membrane sticks like sh1t to a blanket on pretty much anything - obviously as long as it's not wet, dusty or crumbly. I've never used...

There's also an issue of flow rate - too low and you can get sludge build up, too high and you get noisy pipes. But more intuitively, there's not a lot of point stepping up to 22mm from a 15mm pipe.