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Hi, I was hoping to get some advice with regards to building a porch. Have had a look through but can't seem to find the answers I need. It will be built onto two adjoining walls with the two new walls of the porch both being 2m long and approx 2.5m high. One door (obviously) and one window. As...

If having it machined is too pricey then you can use a router with various cutters and replicate any skirting/architrave you want. Thats if you've got one. Short of that Travis Perkins machine plenty of it and are fairly reasonable too. What sort of lengths are you looking for?

I recently went to price up a job, and when I knocked on the door all i could here were the couple screaming at each other. They were going for it big time - decided that discretion was the better part of valour and retreated without even knocking on the door. That evening I rang back to try...

Plenty of interesting views there (as usual). MW the 60% turnover from advertising brings in around £90k of the total cash turnover for the year - now this seems a good return on £3200 worth of advertising. My point was really to find out how all the others advertise (or not). I am a...

Thanks for the replies, some food for thought. As a matter of interest is anyone out there thinking of increasing or decreasing advertising spend during the next 12 months?

I know from the forum that advertising is one of those subjects that splits peoples opinions but.......... rightly or wrongly I'd like to get some feedback on this subject concerning my company. I've been advertising each year with Thomsons directory in the Bucks area, the budget has...

Thanks for you replies lads, I'm going to use the nmp as the customer wants as little rise in floor level as possible. Cheers

Has anyone had any experience with a tile backer board for floors, the one i've seen is called 'no more ply'. I normally overboard with ply but this stuff is like a cement board, very rigid, you glue then screw as with ply. The good thing is its only 6mm thick, the bad thing is its about...

First gently sand the open edges with 240 grit paper. Then apply a 50/50 mix of pva/water, when fully dry cut back again with 320 or finer grit paper and apply a coat of an oil based primer to the edges. When this is fully dried de-nib if required, then apply your chosen primer to all...

You're right about mdf and water (if its soaked). The tried and tested way to seal mdf open edges is pva/water 50/50 mix. This will seal the edge allowing you to lightly sand with fine paper and then paint. If not the open edges will always look rough and cheap.

You'll need to be carefull with the routered edges as they will be 'fluffier' than the rest of the board. A good way to seal this edge is to brush a 50/50 pva/water mix onto the edges to seal them. Once fully dried rub down gently and then proceed with your normal painting sequence.

A compound mitre saw would be the way forward, to really get a spot on mitre we also glue the mitre ends together with 'mitre glue', spray one end and glue the other hold together for about 10 seconds and job done.

Last year I got the SIP 6"x4" planer thicknesser, just under £200.00 inc vat. Had an excellent review on GoodWoodworking magazine. I've used mine plenty of times mainly on softwoods, but it has performed just as well with hardwoods. The SIP came ready to use, blades adjusted correctly and...

If your not a competent plasterer then going straight onto a ceiling is somewhat ambitious. Call in a pro and get a proper (hopefully) job done of it.

Sawdust mixed with paint - interesting combination. Are you sure its not sand mixed in? Anyway as long as the 'paintwork' is in reasonable condition it shouldn't be a problem to pva the walls and then reskim.

Very carefully, thats how you plaster the ceiling and walls at the top of the stairs. Take time to set yourself up a safe working platform, we usually manage with a ladder and some scaffold boards.

Pre worn as has been said are a bit of a god send. On any new trowel (stainless) try to round over the sharp corners with a file and then sharpen the blade slightly. It makes all the difference.............

Thanks Deluks Found plenty of info on the site - obviously didn't look very hard the other day :oops:

Hopefully someone can help me on this one - I've been asked to tile a bathroom floor that has been fitted with underfloor heating. Normally I'd put a screed on top of matting and then tile onto this. However the underfloor heating matting has been laid on top of what appears to be some sort of...

Tiling always takes longer than you think, always. I'm averaging about 3 weeks to rip out, replaster walls for tiling and paint finish, fit flooring, pipe runs, sanitary ware, showers, pumps, electrics, downlights etc. 18 days for tiling tho................