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Think ill forget about insulation, going through BCO seems a whole hassle for such a minor thing. Take it I just use a decent galvanised nail to nail back down the joists where the previous nails have rusted away to nothing?

Thanks - so just to clarify, with a deeper joist I wouldn't need the sleeper wall at all? the span of the joist would just be supported at the external wall plates, roughly 3m span, is that right?

AiY - just trying to achieve a warmer room above and ensure the sub floor doesn't have any issues down the road with moisture/damp - keep it ventilated and free from any rot etc. Once I sort it and put the finished floor on I want to rest easy there be no issues under there and I don't need to...

Thanks for the replies. In my head I was thinking considering the timber had been down there for 50 years it was time to change it out, not sure of the lifespan but seems consensus is to keep it although still worried about the 40% + moisture readings on the wall plate. Would like to insulate...

Would also add the metal nails holding the joists down have basically crumbled to dust, maybe thats a 50 year shelf life thing or moisture levels too high, not entirely sure but adds to my thoughts about needing more ventilation.

Take your point about things not looking too bad for 50+ years :-) I suppose there are 2 main concerns - first being the relative instability in the joists but as you say maybe the floor tightens up that whole structure. Never having examined a floor like that before I expected to be able to...

Hi Everyone, Doing some renovations and curiosity got the better of me to examine what the state of the sub floor was like in one of the rooms before going on to decorate etc - suspended timber floor (1965 bungalow), roughly 3x3m - pictures attached. There's one air brick, non-honeycombed...

Doing some further exploration today and appears there is very little through ventilation between the 3 rooms on the right hand side of the house - seperated by I assume supporting walls - just a couple of small holes around pipes. Any thoughts on how to approach it all would be appreciated...

Hi Everyone, Hoping for some help with how to tackle different sub-floor structures I have throughout a ~1965 bungalow. Hopefully the rough plan I pulled together will provide some context but essentially I have a mix of suspended timber floors on 4 1/2 inch joists and what appears to be...

Roofing felt wasn't something I'd thought about under the floor :) I'm sure there was some logic to it by whoever put it down. Will lift the rest of the floor and see how far it extends!

Is it safe to remove or if its roofing felt is asbestos a possibility?

Hi All, In the middle of some renovations and turning my attention to under floor insulation for a suspended timber floor. Getting new radiators installed and lifted a few previously hacked up floorboards to make way for plumber accessing pipes and also to explore what's ahead of me for the...

Yes, includes cills and making good. Probably will go ahead with replacement to save any issues down the line. Thanks for the replies

Hi Everyone, I have two windows (pics below) where the concrete window sills look to have considerable enough damage, to me it looks like a replace job as opposed to repair - anyone have any thoughts/experience repairing large sections like this? I've been quoted £600 to replace both sills -...

Thanks for the replies. No smell coming from it. I'm planning some work to insulate under suspended timber floors and noticed some of the insulation is partially blocking the air bricks ventilating under the floor - looks like foam has expanded down out of the cavity where there was a gap for...

Hi Everyone, Wondering if anyone has any idea what sort of cavity wall insulation this is? Looks like a cotton wool/compacted snow type consistency. Bungalow built in 1965 but looks to me like the cavity wall insulation has been done relatively recently as I can see filled in (badly) pump holes...