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Sit the joists on a 4x2 wall plate https://www.practicalarchitecture.com/blog/how-to-detail-a-wallplate

Just use one of the many calculators on the internet - Here's one What I always advise is, if the calculator suggests xx Btu size, get the next sized up radiator. You can always turn radiators down, but in adverse cold weather, you can't turn them above their maximum. And obviously, the boiler...

Imagine the columns are not there and the little bit under the arch is removed too. That means you will be back to the original chimney stack. Then in the square section, that's where you install the fireplace of your choice. So depending on an open fire, or an inset or stand alone wood burner...

Solid walls need to breath, try sealing them on either side with modern paints, cement, renders, Thompsons water seal etc.. and you will enter the world of problems. In the day they were built, lime mortar was used, white wash was chalk based, and interior emulsion was clay based. The sealant...

Change the type of bath so it will allow you to plumb it in. If an upstairs bathroom, remove a piece of plasterboard on the downstairs ceiling and plumb from below.

You tile onto plastered wall.

I never apply adhesives, leveler, etc..straight onto a wooden floor substrate, I always screw down every 4" 5mm ply.

No, it just needs reroofed. The felt goes on first on top of the rafters, then the tiles/slates. If the tiles/slates slates fail, the felt saves the day. If the tiles/slates are perished, as well as the felt, you can't magically make or invent a temporary repair under the tiles/slates.

No, loops are designed to be continuous, joints can leak. So install a separate zone to the manifold.

It means water is transmitting from the outer leaf to the inner leaf. These are possible causes - 1 - None or perished cavity tray above window lintel 2 - Full cavity insulation 3 - None or poor installed DPC around window 4 - Wall ties angled towards inner leaf and/or covered in mortar 5 -...

Loft insulation

Looks historic. Fix it up and see.

If you seal stone, how will it breathe?

Yes, you can build the coats up to the desired thickness, just kill the suction between coats with SBR.

If you're standing in a loft, only insulate the floor if you have no heat source (radiator etc..). Insulating a loft in other places without heating can and often causes damp issues.

Structural work requires Building Regs and structural engineer's drawing. Then that will give you the detail.

That sucks

Because of the headers, I assume it's a solid wall. One thing with all walls, the ground must be 6" (two course ob brick) below DPC (Damp Proof Course). With solid walls, you never ever use cement. Cement joints and cement render does not allow the wall to breathe.

I use Zinsser Gardz, not PVA

Yes to PVA or SBR. Theralites (lightweight blocks) is a high suction background. Applying PVA or SBR reduces it to a low suction background so it does sup the water out of your render. Inside, I don't bother with waterproofer but I always add plasticiser, Optimix is the one I like to use. Max...