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Thank you, that's useful - so there is another way, well maybe. Others in that post say not all parts needed, but BCO said it was what was required. Forewarned is forearmed when my BCO arrives! Let's hope he/she is an amenable one.

Unless I'm missing something, my understanding is that the concrete under the timber floor is to stop the growth of weeds or plants. It just seems odd to have to put 200mm of hardcore and concrete to stop this in an area that will be perfectly dry and have no light, two things plants need to...

LA building control yes - but an extended permitted development decision isn't due for a week so not had any contact yet. I'm just forward planning! Wow, 175-200mmm all to stop plant growth.

The thickness of that concrete layer you describe is not mentioned on the drawings, in fact any concrete - I think they were drawings designed for planning, not for construction. It just shows a gap that's one block high between the soil and underside of the joists. The text you have copied is...

No idea, it's what's on the architect's drawings. The existing joists are sat on walls that support the centre of the joists which are just single honeycomb brick walls - I thought that was how it was still done. Is there a need for anything more substantial to support the midpoint of a joist...

House was built in 1962. Existing is 3"x2" timbers on dwarf walls with T&G boards and no insulation. I was thinking of doing it in the same way albeit with PIR insulation in between the new joists (which will be 8x2 due to span - we're using the existing conservatory wall as a single dwarf...

I may not have made myself clear; it's that the rest of the house doesn't have concrete poured under the suspended timber floor, but it does have a suspended timber floor.

We're about to start on a single storey rear extension which will have a suspended timber floor. I've read that (despite the rest of the house not having this) we will need to have concrete poured on the ground under the floor to stop weed growth, but it doesn't mention a thickness or whether...

To anyone that might want to know in the future, I wired a 230v relay via the orange and grey contacts on the zone valves and then took a clean closing contact off the relay to the boiler, and this worked perfectly. There isn't a dry volt free closing contact on the boiler, it's just two...

I have; he seemed to think that it should work as wired, but doesn't normally do anything more than connecting to a wireless stat. If any more than that is required he gets an electrician in.

I've just had a Baxi 836 combi fitted and the call for heat for the boiler is from the grey and orange closing contacts from all the zone valves. Even though on a multimeter they are showing open circuit and short circuit when there isn't and is a call for heat respectively, the boiler...

09 FX in part - YES! The last Pyronix panels I used were the Paragon Plus, of which I did many, and they had a separate zone type for each set type, so I was expecting the same thing with this. I see what I need to do now - thank you sparkymarka.

I've just installed my first Pyronix Euro Mini (only becasue it was a big enough panel which used the correct EOL value for the existing devices) and can't see how to change the 'inputs' (or to me the zone types) from say 'intruder' to 'final exit' between different setting options - A B C D...

I'll need to check about the number of cores at the stat, I know there's three core and earth at the valve, but it's wired in singles to the connection box, so not 100% where they all head. If I install the relay at the valve, then I'd only need the neutral and switched live to give me two...

I have a customer who's tried to install a Simens industrial heating actuator unit to replace a faulty one, but the new unit seems to need switch voltage to open and close, rather than just to open, closing with a spring action like most domestic motorized valves. They're using it with a very...

As others have said, resistors are better, but if you do use normally closed, then you need to create them in a series circuit rather than parallelling them all into the global tamper. Only one red and yellow in the panel's connections, the rest need jointing through individually. You may know...

Is it possible to use a keyfob with a Galaxy 2-12 or 2-20 panel to do a night or part set rather than just a full set? When I present a fob it automatically goes straight into a full set.

Just bought a new shed and even though it comes with a 10 yr guarantee the instructions state that the underside of the floor must be treated with a high-quality oil or solvent based wood preserver, presumably as a get out of their warranty. It's T&G softwood on approx 40x25mm bearers which...

I deleted it, then added it again, and this time it worked. I guess it didn't read properly the first time.

I'm just programming a Galaxy 2-20 and have added a prox fob to an active user, but the prox won't set the system (sets with number). I seem to remember the last time I did this (a long time ago) there was an option that needed changing to allow the fob to set, as well as unset. Keypad...