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Just about anything is possible these days, someone will produce an appropriate plastic-cast iron coupling or even a T fitting (at a price), it wont look very nice though. If there is nothing going into the pipe it might be a vent stack and the radius of the underground swept bend that...

Good link, Thanks Chris

for unvented cylinders. Everyone knows the schedule for a shower is the same as for a kettle. i.e. PAT test once a year by spark plus CSCS plumber to descale element and decontaminate.

what are the maintenance schedules for these systems so as to meet the expectations of buildings insurers. You don't want to be paying out of your own pocket if it takes out the corner of your own house and the neighbours too.

just about any leak from a stop tap body like that should be fixable with a roll of ptfe tape, unless the metal is totally shot. Failing that you can get gunk that setts under water, you could try hold this on with a bandage etc.

the joint between the rad extension and old valve needs boss white or PTFE tape, as does the threaded joint between the extension and the rad. Which joint exactly is it leaking from?

post a picture if u can. if u can't then where is the pipe coming from, can u chase it back to the copper cylinder (tank) in the airing cupboard etc. what colour is this fitting, brass colour ? good suggestion Chris; AAV (auto air vent) with a red cap ?

This is a white plastic cap which replaces the thermostatic cartridge on the valve body. The big thermostat is removed by turning the threaded ring at its base anti-clockwise. However Chrishutt's method will work as well, if not better.

I understand boundary boxes used to get serviced by the water authority on a regular basis as a system of plan preventative maintenance. Water shortages were also less frequent in the past because of the many small though relatively expensive to run reservoires in commission. Privatisation...

make sure you get "full bore" isolation valves, not the 99p service valves for mains water pressure plumbing. the two look similar but the full bore are a little more expensive but gota be worth it.

you could just turn the thermostatic to 0. But if we get a frost it will probably open and water will **** out everywhere. Should use a "decorators" cap

I think they try to get away with saying that but they're under pressure to meet leakage targets so if there is a leak they might look for your boundry box isolation stop tap. The other tactic is to advise them that you have children and you're worried your water supply is occasionally a bit...

thought i'd bump this back up cos I've just had such a great laugth reading it. ps. I've got a 8.5 Kw triton that is used daily and is still ok after 5 years

thanks again for your advice Paul.

thanks again Paul and Chris. Paul, what about soldering with the MT4 trucking, how do you get round burning the plastic?

maybe be coil has corroded and the cental heating water is mixing with the water in the cylinder? Are any overflow pipes overflowing ? Is the hot water form the tap getting dirty Are you needing to bleed your radiators more than usual?

is there a motorised valve in the system (silver box with pipes coming out). Is there a manual bleed point near the side of the copper cylinder

Does your flat have a loft or access to a roof. Some blocks have a service shaft for soil pipes etc. Any gas fires in the flat. One thing I would do is walk around the block and look for any flues your neighbours might have for inspiration, or even talk to them! Gas might get...

sounds like the pump or an airlock. More info about the system needed

thanks for the suggestions paul, I like the idea of running the micro bore behind the skirting, I'll keep that in mind for future jobs.. I had thought of microbore but I was worried that because this was the rad on the longest pipe run, and all the other rads were piped in 15mm, I might have...