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:shock: wow, that's going to sting for a bit!

Thanks Gents, TBH I was in my local B&Q, looked at ones that started at £1.98 up to £20, they all said the same, not to be used for heaters / dehumidifiers. But electrically, as you say, well under the 13A and 3000-odd wattage. As it's an oil filled rad, with a thermostat I might add...

I though about buying a plug in timer for an oil filler radiator I have in the porch. Most of them state on the packaging that they are not to be used with heaters or dehumidifiers. Also on the pack it said total load not to exceed 13A or 3250w. My rad is 2kw. Am I missing something...

I had a similar issue, neighbours were ok at first then started getting twitchy as the building start date got closer. All we did in the end was move the wall 6" on to my land, thus meaning that the foundations were totally within the boundary. Simples. No party wall agreement required. And...

Don't be too sparing with it, I got best results by putting it on quite thick.

I've used the b&q stuff recently, to get round the exact same problem. Very pleased with the results too! Just make sure you get rid of any old flaky paint first.

Have you tried removing the plinth kick boards? If the concrete floor is still wet then this will cause bad smells after a while.

In answer to number 2, and please bear in mind I'm not a plumbing and heating engineer, I'd have thought it not possible. The new boiler will operate at a higher pressure and therefore the old pipe work probably won't be able to take it. And I think you're right about number 1. I'm sure...

When I hung my tv in the bedroom I used coach bolts to hold the bracket to the stud work. I could probably hang my 16 stone off that bracket now.

Agree.

Any updates? This is making good reading!

I had similar problems with my hall stairs and landing. In the end I ended up stripping everything off and not worrying too much about causing damage, then had the whole lot skimmed. Now the walls are painted and perfect, not a mark on them, and didn't cost as much as I thought it would.

Scaffolding and a tarpaulin? Build a temporary structure to house the entire extension?

It's all solvable, I'm sure that someone who can advise will be along soon... Is the window double glazed? If so would a new glass unit solve the problem? I had quite a big unit replaced and it cost me £70 fitted. As far as the damp proof failure, this can also be fixed, but I have no...

You need to ensure that the concrete has dried fully before putting any new tiles down.

I might be stating the obvious here, but have you tried ringing the person who did the work? Assuming that they also issued the cert?

Got to the bottom of it today!! Stripped it down and checked all wiring. Found that 2 wires under the hob were touching the underside of the hob, resulting in them melting together and shorting out the main circuit board!! So I've repaired these by cutting out the wires all together as they...

Hi Riveralt! Yeah, when I turn off the dual pole switch, the MCB reset no problem. When I then turned on the switch to the cooker, the RCD tripped and continues to do so. The MCB doesn't trip any more. I disconnected the connection at the back of the cooker to check if there was a wiring...

Hi all, Not being a very good week for me so far! Tonight, I was cooking on the gas hob on my Cannon C60DTC cooker, no problems there. Then a very loud pop and a tripped MCB, not the RCD. I have a brand new CU installed and fully certified to 17th eddition. Anyway, as the oven...

I have an inline 2 port Danfoss valve. Did what you said, the lever was loose with the system off, as soon as I turned everything on with the stat up full, the lever was rock solid - so valve isn't opening. Checked the power supply, this is ok; so think it's just the actuator that has gone...