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Gate valve in the airing cupboard for the CW isn't closing fully. I was going to remove the old valve and replace it with a ball lever valve, but if I remove the old one and cut the pipe just above the old olives, there may not be enough pipe to fit the replacement. So, is it perfectly fine to...

Ok, thanks for that... I'll make sure they drill from the inside.

Toilets are on the mains... found that out the other day and also explains the impressive fill rate!

I was planning on bunging the tank then installing the pump inline with the dedicated CW feed for the bath fillers in the bathroom and en-suite. Is cleaning the tank out optional? Access to the tank is very difficult... it's very large and has been raised-up on stilts so the top of the tank is...

Thanks. Would the hot taps run dry very quickly with the cold supply to the cylinder isolated? Presumably, without fresh water coming into the cylinder to replace what's being used, the cylinder wouldn't drain through the taps?

Do I need to drain-down the entire HW cylinder when installing a Surrey flange, or can I just drain some of it? If so, how much needs to be drained-off? Thanks.

Have booked-in Mark Group to have my loft insulation topped-up and have cavity wall insulation installed. Property is a large 4-bed detached with perfect brickwork. Had a plasterer round the other day to quote on some rendering to the front of the property and I mentioned I was having cavity...

Need to drain-down the huge CW storage tank in my loft so I can install a shower pump. The gate valve in the airing cupboard on the CW feed from the tank doesn't shut the flow off completely (lime scale?) and I was going to bung the tank, but access makes that very difficult, if not impossible...

Yeah, I was going to use a Surrey flange, but switched to the Stuart flange for exactly that reason (swivelling side fitting). Thanks.

Ah, so the male fitting on the side is effectively a captive bit of 22mm brass pipe and will connect to a push-fit or compression fitting in the same way any bit of 22mm copper would? Looks like a Warix flange uses the same side fitting. Thanks.

That would make sense if the stopcock was on the rising mains in the airing cupboard, but the stopcock is on a run of pipe that Tees off the rising main and goes into the bathroom, so I assume it was put there to isolate CWM services in the bathroom and en-suite?

Haven't picked one up yet, but instructions state a push-fit or compression fitting can be used for the HW take-off. Looking at pics of the flange though, there's a female brass receiver (unthreaded) for the 22mm copper pipe. How would a push-fit or compression fitting work? Anyone fitted one?

Yep, it's the rising mains to the CW storage tank. Stopcock is on a pipe that tees-off to the bathroom, but I can't see a difference to anything whether it's on or off! Can only assume the stopcock is somehow knackered (although it feels OK) and it was put there to isolate the CWM services in...

Ah, of course, yes it must be. I'm an idiot, lol.

Was looking in the airing cupboard last night planning ahead for installing a shower pump and have identified the cold water feed from the tank in the loft to the HW cylinder (22mm), the cold feed from the tank in the loft into the bathroom/en-suite (22mm) and also the HW feed from the HW...

Ok, makes sense. I'll install a Surrey flange in the top of the HW cylinder and feed the HW side of the pump from there. Yep, it's the 3 Bar Monsoon.

Why do you say that? This is the pump Stuart Turner recommended... obviously, if multiple hot taps are in use around the property at the same time, the pressure will drop-off, but there's only 2 of us in the house.

Got a Stuart Turner 3.0 Bar Universal Twin pump. This will be installed in the airing cupboard next to the HW cylinder and will pump both gravity-fed cold (for bath fillers in the bathroom and en-suite) and hot (whole house). The HW cylinder has a 90-degree pipe coming out of the top, which tees...

Ah, hadn't thought of that. Only trouble is, an adhesive is only as strong as the adhesion of the underlying paint and plaster to the wall. Wouldn't want the weight of 3 or 4 heavy coats to tear away a chunk of plaster! Cheers, Ian. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Thanks Maxxy.

Yep, exactly what my Dad suggested when I spoke to him about this over the weekend. Sorry for the ignorant question, but can you buy strips of wood like that with profiled edges? I don't own a router to make my own. Cheers, Ian.