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RigidRaider - Good idea ... but ... Its a concrete floor in a basement - The existing pipework is to one end of a stud wall I've constructed. If I do the tiling myself I can leave a small area of plasterboard off, and mount the raidator then connect up the pipework, then finsih off that area.

(to drain system twice) I gues to you pro's its not ... its just a job I've not done before. Maybe I'll leave connecting up to heating pipework till very last and leave system drained until after tiling ... gives me an incentive to finish the project before the winter -:)

Thanks for that ... a lot clearer! I'll get the IP44's I've seen for my Zone 1 (above shower area).

I'm a bit confused about the zones thing ... Will IP44 lights be OK for above my shower tray? Zone 1? Why do people advertise IPX5 lights - surley they are still good for Zone 1 but good enough for Zone 0 ... so no better than IPx4? :?

If I put end caps on wont I have to drain the system twice? Once to connect up the pipework before plasterboard/tiling. Again to connect up the valves/rad after tiling when fitting rad.

I'm putting a towel radiator on a new stud wall with concealed pipework behind. I'll have to connect up the pipework to existing heating pipework before plasterboarding. If I put the valves on beforehand I'll be left with large cut outs in the tiles, and the heavy vales hanging from the...

Thanks Terrywookfit - will do ..

Just for future reference - I pre-drilled with a 6mm bit. They were a very tight screw in using mole grips. But are a very secure attachment for the sink - Very pleased with them.

seco services - Ahh, thanks .. ... it was a tight push ... with the taper at the top of the plastic insert I thought it wasnt supposed to go all the way through.

Hi, Mr Amateur here .. I guess to Mr Pro these questions are obvious! This sink trap drops 29cm from the sink to baseof trap, is that too long? Should I cut it down? Is their a minimum drop I should have to the trap? Is that plastic insert normal, does that form the 'trap'? Doesnt...

Thanks for the quick replies .. kirkgas - Yes, will use clips and extra woodwork to to secure it before plasterboard (Aquaboard'ing). htgeng - I'm using the FloPast pipe becuase of all the 22mm stuff I looked at it was the most flexible, allowing me to use a single piece with zero joins...

Hi, Is this OK for my Macerator waste routing? (Pipe yet to be secured with clips etc). I've used a single piece of 22mm FloPlast pipe to avoid joins and keep the bend radi large ... I'm concerned I should go vertical first than horizontal? The total vertical is about 2.5m to the...

Would 5mm pre-drilled holes be OK?

Thanks for that gaspro ...

Can I screw a 1/2" female tap connector to the end of an isolating valve that has a 1/2" compression end? The ends of compression connectors appear slightly bevelled, would it ruin the seal on the female tap connector doing this?

Thanks seco services

So should I fit the wallplate so that the 1/2" end will be about flush with where the tiles will be (ie. leave enought spare deptth for plasterboard and tiles). Isnt it a lottery screwing isolation valves into wall plates that they tighten up with the outlet in the required orientation...

Thanks Holty .. It seems with the 'trendy' valves like these...

I'm fitting a wall mounted shower room sink to a stud wall. Should I leave the copper exposed through the wall and then tile, before fitting exposed tap isolation valves? Or should I fit valves first? (Easier to pressure test pipework for leaks, but not so pretty?) Any ideas on what...

Yes into very beefed up noggins!