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That's strange because I have water sit in my gutter that is on the bungalow and I assumed it was because there wasn't enough of a drop, that was the next on the list of jobs to do after the fascia and gutter on the garage

Brilliant, thanks for your help, will make a start next week

Thanks for the reply, why do I need to fix some backing treated battens?:- I thought the idea of solid uPVC Fascia was so that you don't use timber?

Hi All, The Fascia on my garage is wood and fairly rotten. so I thought I would replace it with uPVC, I intend to remove the guttering, remove the rotten wood and replace with solid uPVC. The existing Fascia is 20mm thick and 150mm height, there are 2 sections, 1 back 1 front. Access is limited...

Thanks Matz, that explains it, I haven't been wiping at all after applying the stain, it doesn't say anything about that on the tin. I think you're right, I think it's water based as the brush can be washed in water, so I'll give the edges a wipe over with kitchen roll and I'll remember when I...

Yes the ends are darker but I'm not concerned about that, it's the front and back edge that are dark. I must admit when I've been doing the staining I do one side top or bottom and edge at the same time, maybe that is why, but what is the best way to get rid of the dark edge? Thanks Steve

It's from B&Q there colours range, the Mrs picket it out, its building up on the edge, I haven't looked today, so it might be both long edges. The shelves are made of plain white wood, no idea what it is though, I bought it from a timer shop but it was cheap, I'd guess something like plain white...

Hi, I've started to stain the shelves that I'm going to put up and I've noticed that the edge of the wood is very dark, I assume that the stain has settled there thicker, how do I get around this? I wasn't sure if I should rub gently with some fine sandpaper or try white spirt to remove it? I...

It's a cheap one B&D I think, if I did a curve with it I'd end up sanding by hand for quite a while and I don't want to spend too much time

Thanks both, I do have a jigsaw but I'm not that great with it, so I'll cut all by hand, I do have a mitre saw for the diagonals and I'm OK with that. Steve

Thanks big-all, but I don't understand what you mean, do you have a picture or a diagram with dimensions? My wood work isn't great, so I wouldn't do curves. Also, how often do I need the support brackets, as total length is 1.2 m I was going for 4 brackets every 300mm, does that sound OK? I...

Hi, The wife wants a couple of bookshelves, so I've bought 2 lengths of 1.2 m planned wood @ 20mm thick and 145mm deep, it's just white wood, fairly cheap. I want to make some shelf brackets, after I got the wood I saw this Basically its what I was thinking but a bit better looking as its for...

You were right, they unscrew. I put some long nose players up there and unscrewed them, they were a bit damaged when they came out as they are plastic but I won't use them so it doesn't matter and the taps look fine without them

Thanks John, I haven't actually bought them as yet, thought I would find out how to remove if possible first. I'll see if anyone else replies, maybe someone has actually done it. I did try Google for H & C but it just comes up with Screwfix, I though I'd try and contact H & C directly to see if...

Hi, I need to replace some sink taps and I like the look of:- http://www.screwfix.com/p/h-c-turn-bathroom-basin-taps-pair/52504 The think is, they come with Aerator's fitted and screwfix say that they can' be removed, I've looked at the taps and there doesn't seem to be an easy way to remove...

Let us know what you do maybe I will do the same

Thanks all, very very good information, I'll see how things go with a few more quotes

Sounded a bit noisy, not terrible, I couldn't hear it the other side of door, one of those very cheap hollow doors, but I'm thinking add another 25% of noise and it might go through a wall. I friend of mine had his boiler in a cupboard, he has a more modern bungalow with plasterboard walls, his...

Thanks for that. I wasn't thinking about using floor to ceiling battens and only securing at floor and ceiling, my concern would be that the weight of the boiler might pull on the battens too much without them being fastened to the wall. Maybe I need to get more quote for putting it in the loft...

I was thinking screw the 1.5" battens to the solid walls using raw plugs and fairly large screws, screw the WPB to battens and plasterboard to WBP. Does that sound reasonable? I might see if I can get some loft insulation between the wall and WPB, so cut it 1.5" thick