Search results

I'm DIYing my loft conversion (builder built the watertight structure and did roofwork, I'm doing all internals). It's hip to gable with a rear dormer. Insulation wise, I have 90mm Celotex in between external studs. I am thinking whether or not I need to use 15mm OVER the studs too, or if it's...

There's ventilation in terms of trickle vents in windows, and will be an extractor fan in the bathroom, if that counts. I've already purchased moisture plasterboard for the bathroom which I can't return as I cut in halves to fit them up the stairs. Wish I knew about the marmox board earlier...

I reeeally don't want to mess about with the plumbing as the waste pipes took me a long time to get perfect so I could fit a slim profile shower tray without much trouble and without raising it with an easy plumb kit...plus it would involve ripping off my glued down flooring to do so as you can...

I am planning to put 15mm over the gable wall, which I is rendered (and not tiled) on exterior. Currently 90mm between all studs, with OSB on outside and tiled box dormer. The bathroom plumbing is already in place so can't add extra 15mm layer to the walls. However it will be fully tiled, so...

After seeing these replies agree with my initial thoughts, I decided to redo those corners - removed and recut insulation, and fitted new timber to support the plasterboard :)

Almost ready to start plasterboarding my DIY Loft conversion (had a builder do the shell/structure only) but realised the internal corners have no studs for the plasterboard to screw to. Is this standard or has the builder messed up? I would have thought a stud is needed on every corner? Do I...

Many thanks. I'd already purchased the Hardiebacker boards so will likely just crack on with those rather than insulation board - plus UFH will be a secondary heat source anyway so doubt we'll use it much Just to clarify, when you say to 'prime each layer with tilers primer before starting the...

Am doing my loft bathroom floor and wanted to confirm my order of flooring build up is correct? -22mm chipboard -12mm Hardiebacker, glued down using tile adhesive and 12 screws per board. 3mm expansion gap around perimeter of floor, which I'll fill with silicone (so there's no gaps when laying...

BCO have just sent this drawing, forwarded from Glidevale, and advised this is the solution with the FV250 vents. Basically that vent will be fitted to the top of the ridge, and an opening made on the inside to allow air to reach the vent, which will then be sealed with lead flashing. Works...

Thanks guys. Have just had BCO round and he wasn't happy with the full fill option :( Can't feel a draught where joists end at the steel, although the top of the steel is cold and a little wet to the touch from condensation. Centre noggings are same size as the joists and fitted in line with...

Gotcha...so the principle aim is NOT just to get rid of the void in between the joists? Sorry if I'm being thick but want to make sure I get this right. Just to clarify, I push up the 120mm to underside of deck, then ONLY use foam in the void (which will range from 63mm at one end to 33mm the...

Thanks, out of curiousity - is this a common solution to this issue? I only ask as I've been pulling my hair out researching this cold roof ventilation issue for the last 2 days and haven't come across this suggestion, only people saying how the void needs to be vented both ends. Hoping BC will...

If the 120mm insulation is pushed up tight under the roof decking, would I then need to add more insulation to fill the void that would appear underneath this 120mm insulation? As they are 150mm joists, plus firrings. Would the insulation need to be flush in line with the bottom of the joists...

Thanks for replies. I wish it was a warm roof but didn't know much about cold and warm roofs when the builder did it, and now it's too late. If I full fill the void and push insulation up, wouldn't that create even more of a problem? Aren't cold roofs supposed to have that ventilation gap? If...

Had a builder do the shell/structure of my loft conversion earlier this year and I'm DIYing the rest. Whilst putting insulation in I've discovered he hasn't left ventilation at either end of the cold dormer roof. It's felt on top, with 150mm (145mm) ceiling joists, plus firrings. Am using 120mm...

Am currently putting the floor in on my loft conversion (controlled) - there was 150mm thermal insulation in between joists which I've left there - is this adequate for building control sign off or does it need to be acoustic insulation? I've already glued a couple of rows of T&G boards down so...

I am about to lay T&G floorboards down for my hip to gable loft conversion with rear dormer and not sure how far I should push the floor insulation roll into the edges of the dormer and eaves? Read conflicting views when I googled and searched this forum, I can only assume that's because each...

I have redrawn the diagrams taking the advice here into account. Are they now correct? The extractor fan will have a timer so it continues to operate for a while after the light is turned off. I assume 3 core and Earth cable from the light fitting to the fan isolator, and 3 core and Earth cable...

Thanks, but I had other work done in the house a few years ago and builders ran lighting and power cable up to the loft from the consumer unit by builders at that time, as I knew I'd do a loft conversion at some point. I just assumed it was 1.5mm and 2.5mm so purchased the same to do the first...

Thanks, will connect 3 cables to bottom right corner light. The whole of the top section is the rear dormer with a flat roof, (where there are 6 downlights in bedroom and the bathroom), so it's flat roof joists there. The bottom area (where the 3 lights are on their own switch) have a pitched...