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Hi all, I am planning to run a 2.5mm cable behind a plasterboard wall. The route follows safe zones, but I need the cable to turn 90 degrees. I can't find any joins for oval PVC conduit, how should I do it? I can't find anything in the wiki or forum pages. Thanks

Martin, I am getting rid of my comfortaire. It's been replaced with individual storage heaters. Are you still interested in parts? I know some of the insulation is asbestos boards, but am just trying to find out which bits, so I can safely dispose of them. Do you happen to know?

It's always been like it. The cylinder is quite new, which would rule out lime scale. It was delivered as a single unit, with cold water tank and hot water cylinder joined, with a vent going back into the cold water tank. It also came with two flanges, one for normal hot water and one essex...

No problem! Yes, it goes (diagonally) up to the shower mixer valve and from there straight up to the shower head.

Thanks for the reply. No, the feed from the pump goes straight up, with the shower head being the highest point. I think any air on that side of the pump would be vented through the shower head.

Thanks for all the replies. I will try checking the vent pipe. I don't know the exact power or bar flow rate, but I will check tonight and post them up.

Hi, do you meant the vent my FIL put in to let us vent the built up air? There is no suction through that vent when the pump is on...

There's an essex flange on the inside. Not sure where the air is coming from TBH, there isn't any traces of water anywhere to suggest air is getting in somewhere else.

Hi all, I'm no expert plumber, so excuse the stupid questions/comments. I've got a shower pump that is fed from a hot water cylinder and the cold water tank above it (i.e. hot and cold have the same head of pressure). There is a gradual build up of air on the hot water side which doesn't...

Hi all, I am planning to replace my kitchen in the near future and was wondering about the rules for electrical work in kitchens. I realise that much of the work comes under Part P, but how about moving existing appliances, sockets, cookers etc.? No additional spurs or load required. Is...

Thanks Woody, I think I'll go with that! I hadn't even thought of wood with varnish, but of course it doesn't matter if it gets a few dents, as it's only temporary!

Thanks for the reply. Well, I had a look at some worktops, but they all seemed to have a max depth of 600mm. Does anyone know where I can get a cheap one with a depth of 800mm or more. Doesn't have to be anything fancy, it's only in for a year!

Hi all, in my kitchen I've got an old worktop which is narrower, but also deeper than the standard size (1640 x 800 mm). It seems to be an old DIY job and is tiled with smallish wall tiles which have cracked and broken over the years. We are going to do the whole kitchen in about a year's...

Hi all, I've had a dual, negative head (salamander) shower pump installed for a while. The hot is fed from the hot water cylinder, the cold from the same cold water tank that feeds it i.e. they have the same head of pressure. The cold water tank has plenty of capacity BTW. This has run just...

I've happened across this: http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_107104/article.html No idea if there's a UK supplier. I guess you're also limited to switching local appliances only, unless you want extension leads across your whole house.

Another thought, if you can set the secure FM code yourself on the plug linked above (or find it out), I'm sure you can get an interface board for your PC with a transmitter you can use to switch it. The more I think about DIY switching for mains appliances the less of a good idea I think it is!

If you want to do it from your PC (via a board plugged in to a port in the back?), some level of electronics is probably required. You would need Opto transistor Isolators or Opto Triac Isolators. Unless of course, you can find something similar to the link posted above that would take low...

More info need I think! Some electrical goods are designed to run of either 110 or 230V, these are normally goods that run on 5V DC anyway though. If the product can run on either, it will say somewhere on the product or in the instructions. If not, don't tinker with it or 5th November (4th July...

Hi all, I'm looking for some advice on installing two new storage heaters in my split level, 2 bed flat. I'm on economy 7 and have a sotarage heater in the 1st bedroom (upstairs) already which is fine. I'm installing another storage heater in the 2nd bedroom (also upstairs) and a third in the...

Thanks for the tips. It really is only a small mark and it thankfully hasn't gone through to the fibreglass.