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try giving your bco a call. I built a bungalow last year and i had to weld 30 foot rsj's together to get the full 78 feet span. It was supported on several internal walls at regular intervals but the bco guy pulled out a book and advised me what to use. He has sinced signed off the...

If you are filling 5mm then i think you will find it will be dry the following day. So far as priming the wall, What does it say on the evo-bond tube ? Works wonders reading the instructions.

I apply PVA mainly to cure suction NOT to aid adhesion. Maybe i am readibg this wrong.... then again it is christmas and i have been on the magners :D :D edit Ignore me. Read it proper now and i kind of agree...... Good stuff this magners :oops:

WOW, Not sure about others but if i employed the services of a plasterer who had to ask "how to do it" on a DIY forum, then i would be a little worried. No I'll re-phrase that, I would be VERY worried. Then again I am a plasterer so i dont need to worry.. Phew thank god for that.

When I plaster over chases i use 50% bonding with 50% multi finish in the same mix. The multi gives a smooth finish and also help the bonding to set quicker. The multi on its own is too heavy and you would be waiting till the pubs close before you could trowel bonding on its own to a smooth...

Sound advise fron corrie..... i second that

To be honest (And this is NOT a poke at the painters and decorators on this forum) it is probably cheaper to have your entire house skimmed than have a p&d do his thing :oops: Thats just me talking has a plasterer who charges a reasonable price for a house re-plastering...

I personally would throw in a couple of hand's full of multi or board finish to aid a rapid setting time. definitely NO to cement, but maybe clout knows something i don't ??? If he does, then i will buy the drinks at the next DIY NOT christmas get together :D

I assume this was an insurance job ? if so, ring your insurance company, and ask them to send an assessor to look at the lovely job their approved repairer as made. Do NOT settle for the standard of work they have done ( assuming it is as bad as what you are saying? a piccie would help)

Either the way Brist's advise ( with sand and cement ) or baton the walls and dryline. Drylining is NOT (repeat ) NOT one of my fav ways of plastering ( :x :twisted: :roll: spit spit ) but sometimes its the only way :cry:

Wheyhey, for some reason my posting privileges where removed ? Maybe because i wanted to tell a certain person what a dick head he was. anyhow, the mods have now re instated my privileges. Should i feel grateful ? honoured? feel a team player? maybe i should feel relived that the mods...

gcol, I'm in the middle of a full kitchen refit including removal of a couple of walls and replastering the full room once finished The customer wanted a new floor. Old tiles removed and new tiles fitted. I have worked extensively with amtico flooring and I'm aware of the importance of a...

Amazing, Roughcaster, looks as if me and you are the only people who would walk away from a job like that, and keep our good reputation in the process. I am in no way saying plaster wont stick to tiles but it IS and always WILL BE a bodged job. Bonding will dryout before it has time to...

Sounds to me like a bodge, shortcut, cost cutting exercise. or whatever else you want to call it ? I don't know how people can sleep at night knowing they are willing to do jobs like that. Bonding or Browning was NEVER designed to be applied at 1mm thickness. How the hell do you apply bonding...

Not sure if this is 100% correct but i always thought the toughening process (that is required with a conservatory) actualy reduces the effect of k glass ? EDIT.. Scrub that comment. Just read up on it and it doesnt :?

I dont want to get into the argument regarding which is better (wood V plastic) I just wanted to advise the OP that if it is a glass back door then DONT forget to top and tail the glass or the door frame within the main frame will sag after a while and you will get problems with the locks...

have to admit that i still like the good old fashioned stuff 12" I do exactly has noseall does.

You could always identify one of your tiles, then have a look on fleebay or reclamation yard. You would be surprised how many people offer old tiles for FREE just to get rid of them

looking at the picture you posted, it appears that the patio level is above you damp proof course? Is it me or does it look like that air brick visible was partially under the ground ?

Think you will find the reason the slates have slipped is down to the nails having rusted away.I would strip roof, felt & baton and then re use the slates replacing any damaged ones. I like slates especially on older property. Also looking at that picture, i assume the other side of that roof...