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Old Skool Toilet downstairs

All sorted, went to Screwfix and picked up a new Float Valve. Managed to break down the old Float Valve and the new seal was the same as the old, so swapped it over. Put it all back together, then tried to find a nut to go on the end of the adaptor. Unfortunately some chimp managed to...

Unfortunately not, its a nut on the end of the arm. No thread, it just slides on and off. I could remove the arm, however I now have the adaptor to pop to a local DIY shop. I suspect the vibration has caused the nuts to loosen... :) Thanks for the help. FTB.

[/url] Me just need the nut for now, once its "rented" then the business can pay for the damn thing to be replaced. Probably tie it in with the boiler check. :)

Thanks, if the tenant complains then we shall instruct a plumber...I think were moving into areas which I know nothing about. I can look inside a toilet, and adjust the ball cock to stop it overflowing..thats about it. Sorry.

Ahh..now I see. The float arm has an adaptor on the end, as the ball cock does have clearance issues. It can be screwed directly into the float arm, however its best that its put back how it was. Whilst watching the arm, the other nut on the other end was loose. Suspect the noise/vibration...

I think your right, the toilet has started to make a noise when it fills. Its sort of a high pitch whine, which we could not work out why. More noticeable when we are filling the bath/flushing the toilet at the same time.

I think its M~something... Threaded part pushes through the ball bracket, then something screws up against it.

Well we all know it went south, but where can I get a new nut from? I suspect its M2?

^^ Phone is Android

Don't sweat the small stuff. Tissue is for leaky waste pipe. That fridge socket is ace. Forgot to picture the hob & oven on a 13amp extension lead. So much to inspect but only 40min visits. Mrs FTB wants the old wasp nests out the attic too.

We also found Choc-Blocks on 1mm in the attic with tape on them, easy fix. Here are the pictures rotated.. Ah...the fridge socket? EFI... just for you.. a screen shot.. photos were uploaded using phone. FTB

Post deleted as photo posted below.

Some images Board and Meter inside a corner kitchen cupboard. Post deleted as photo posted below. Double Socket, Spurred from a Single Socket, Providing power to the garage board and the light in the rear porch. Awesome eh

^your man here is right. Mis-typed white in leiu of blue.

Have you used this socket before the oven was fitted? As mentioned above, we suspect the RCBO white lead is in the wrong neutral bar. Who fitted the Cooker MCB? If the socket has never been used, and is tripping now, then its an electrician warranty claim.. free of charge

Even when the SWA is terminated outside in an IP65 Plastic Box, then run to the board in 6mm T&E (with an optional 4mm earth)..? Not every Consumer Unit is metal..and the cable run to the box would be within 50mm of the surface.

You could make your garage future proof. Before Part P and all that, I did a 7 mtr run to a garage in 6mm 3-core SWA. 32A MCB in the house (unprotected side) with a 2 way board in the garage (Ring Main/Lighting Circuit) with a RCD main switch. As the installation was only going to happen...

I know that feeling however most people can walk from memory and we have good corridor husbandry of keeping it clear

There appears to only be 1 lighting circuit so no issues now. I will pull the cover off the board and have a peek. I have 30-40mtrs of old skool B&W T&E which if I could find where upstairs is fed from and JB it out back the board.