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Hi. I initially designed the wall to be double 12mm ply/OSB on the exterior totaling 24mm but now found out that timber is a thermal "weak spot" in terms of insulation so figured it would be better to add exterior insulation to the building wedged between the ply/OSB? Here's what I got...

The socket will be tapped off an existing socket. So because the existing socket might be a spur I will have to add an FCU for the additional socket (for the LEDs) So I was going to add the switch line from in between the FCU and new single socket by intercepting the 2.5mm cable with a junction...

Sounds good but are you suggesting I use the light switch to control the socket on/off? I mean I could add a 5 amp fuse before the socket and intercept to power cable before the socket with a junction box, then run a switch line to the light switch. Is it OK if the switch line is 1.5mm? I mean...

Hi I'm building a wardrobe for a customer and replaced her room light switch with a 2-Gang one with the hope of installing a wardrobe light powered by the lighting circuit. Now she has gone and bought ELV LED lights which are the same style you would find in kitchen cabinets. The lights come...

Make the crack bigger then fill with exterior rated flexible tile adhesive (from powder). Paint over.

Ugh I'm not sure coming to this forum for advice was the best idea. The DPC is down and appears to be OK where the bricks are laid on top... but the parts where there are no bricks has the DPC peeling (not adhered to mortar below). I only had time to lay 8 bricks. This has me worrying that...

Quick question as I need to do this soon... Wall from outside in will be: Renderboard -- 25mm air gap/battens -- || 12mm plywood -- 12mm OSB2 -- 96mm studwall || -- 12mm plasterboard The part between || these lines || will rest on the perimeter bricks. Should I do this (block will be cut...

The slab is 150mm above ground at the front but below ground at the back because of garden slope. I really don't wanna drill into the concrete as I'm worried it will crack. I was going to put the grey blocks around perimeter everywhere EXCEPT where the front door will be - because that would...

Not enough excess but I will add to it with double sided tape and duck tape.

I will admit I don't know what I'm doing but I'm rushing ahead and it's not like I'm building a real house. So nothing is protecting the DPM. It was dumped into the hole and the concrete poured over it.

So a DPC under the perimeter blocks and the outside DPM will fold over the blocks (between the blocks and timber) like this?

I got a concrete slab raised above ground ready to build a summer house on with a DPM dangling out the side. Want to put a perimeter of bricks/blocks around to further lift the timber walls above ground and allow something for me to drill the timber walls to in order to secure them to the base...

You mean the concrete might slide/crumble down at the edges under the weight of the blocks? What does edge reinforcing look like and can it be applied after the concrete is poured (but before the blocks)? Man I wish I read your post first because that seems like a good idea but unfortunately...

Hi. Still confused on whether I want timber vs block build for a summer house. Had the idea of doing the back wall in thermalite blocks and all other 3 walls in insulated timber... would this be a bad idea? Reason being is that the back wall of the old shed was totally rotten. Also would this...

Bro I don't even know what I'm doing! Some people say yes to DPM under the concrete slab some say over the top (under the actual floor). I'm probably gonna end up doing both. But the guy I'm working on it with is a builder and said put DPM into the hole before concrete and have 500mm hanging...

I did realize it but had no time to order another dpm from eBay! Concrete had to be done on the day. Yes foundations with DPM under them... 450mm deep footings but only the first half (250mm) was poured. The remaining 200mm will be poured on Wednesday as an entire slab with mesh, fibres etc...

Hi, I bought a 6x5m DPM and had it laid for an outbuilding base - then concrete was poured around the footings over the DPM. Turns out the DPM is too small on one side and just about comes up to where the surface of the 2nd layer of concrete will be (we are doing footings first then 200mm...

I will be building a "summer house" in the back garden and am undecided on whether to use grey aerated blocks or insulated timber? I want it to be warm as well as pretty sound-proof since I might consider using it for music mixing/mastering. The grey blocks would be single skin 100mm thick +...

D'oh, I should've realised that. I know about 1/2 and 3/4 copper pipes just completely disregarded them when measuring up the valves. So it looks like I will need 20 tooth 3/4" 54mm ceramic valves. Looks like both the hot and cold are leaking too as I isolated each - hot leaking more than cold...

Ahh I see. I'm looking at valves right now and noticed they have 1/2" and 3/4" - do these measurements refer to the thread width? I can't seem to find 3/4" (19mm) anywhere on this valve: