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OK seems that searching for 36" wide doors did bring some stuff up. E.g. http://www.emeralddoors.co.uk/External-Doors/External-Hardwood-Doors/Colonial-Hardwood-M&T-Door-/p-92-116-1002/

The outside frame measurement of our front door is 1000mm. Most of the exterior hardwood doors I've seen off the shelf only go up to about 830mm, so a bit too narrow to look good. However, a joiner who was quoting me for a new front door mentioned he was able to buy 3ft wide hardwood doors (so...

I agree. I'm already getting 3 quotes. My question was more about the wisdom of buying a GRP door with a view to painting it.

We have an ugly old uPVC front door that we want to replace. The outside measurement of the frame is 1m wide, so it's probably too wide to get an off-the-shelf door. Looks like we'll probably have to have it specially made. Ideally we'd like to paint the door so we can choose the exact colour...

No, never had one before... interesting what you say. We already have the cooker and hood - can't take those back now. But maybe we should opt for tiles rather than the splashback...

Need to buy a stainless steel splashback for a new range cooker. I just bought the hood from Britannia (for £260 - and seems very good) and noticed that their S/S splashbacks are about £300! However, you can get a S/S splashback from Screwfix for £55...

Just wanted to check what people think. We're having 30mm granite worktop, which will butt up to a solid oak breakfast bar. The bit of oak we have ordered is 40mm thick, it appears. But now I'm wondering if it would be better to exchange it for 27mm thick oak instead, so we don't get the 10mm...

Workman came back. He says he's tried those various types of connector and they don't fit. Because they are either too deep (would hit the wall behind) or not deep enough (not purchase on the outlet from the toilet). He says the outlet pipe on the toilet is deeper than the old one, which is why...

That's exactly why I was asking for confirmation of that advice on here. Hopefully someone here will be a bit more knowledgeable and let me know.

Good question. But I think he thought he'd finished. The other guy was tiling, and this guy was just putting toilet back in, trimming doors, etc. Anyway, think I'm going to ask him to re-do it. Does anyone know if those flexible pan connectors are OK? Seems like one of those would work.

Thanks guys. I think the problem may be that the drop on the connector needs to be at least 320mm. Most of the ones I've looked at are about 300mm. Often hard to see sizes from the internet. Went to Toolstation and the guy there suggested a flexible connector, would that be just as good?

I'm a total newbie in this - sorry if it's really basic. We've just had some tilers put tiles on our bathroom floor. They also put in a new toilet at the same time. But the guy told me that the existing pan connector was not tall enough to reach down properly (40mm) into the pipe below, so he...

But, as I said in the original question, this door *does* need to stop heat-loss between rooms. Because on the other side of the door is an uninsulated, cold garage. I.e. in winter it will zero degrees in the garage. That's why I was asking about 'external firedoors'.

Oh, OK thanks. I do wonder, though, why exterior doors tend to have a quoted U value, whereas interior ones don't. Look on the B&Q site, for example.

I don't know much about doors, but I've been told I need a firedoor between the kitchen and the garage (we're making a new opening). However, the garage is a cold space, and we're upgrading the insulation in the wall between the house and garage. So if I put a standard firedoor in there, isn't...