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If you think leaving the EU will suddenly stop well educated, well trained migrants coming in you're wrong. If you think it'll stop illegal migrants coming in and under cutting the minimum wage you're wrong. And if you think it means suddenly the government will invest in education and skills...

Cool. Going for the coiled ducting, looks like I can get a good colour to blend in

I've seen advisory of 600mm but no regs. HSE website also says no regulation depth. The electrician hasn't given me a depth but if he's not happy to sign it off I guess I'll dig it deeper

Thanks, I know about the tape, not seen any rule on depth, but was planning 5-600 or a bit more. It's only 6-7m so I don't mind digging deeper Cable guard looks good, although I do have a bend to negotiate

I'm running a SWA to a shed, in my back garden, partially buried and partially fixed to a wall. I understand it's fine just to attach to a permanent wall with clips, but I'd like a bit more protection, especially where it enters the ground. What's the preference PVC heavy duty conduit or...

I don't mean to be be negative either, but it's only a bit of wire, put in according to some rules. I've read the rules but have little experience, was hoping for some good advice

Wow... Normally this forum is super helpful. You guys all polish electricians worried about being chucked out... Thank deadshort. At least one constructive post

Flameport - what would you use?

I've had different views from different sparks and I have my own. No problem getting a further opinion. No problem with DIY getting signed off my competent professional. You're obviously a spark that wouldn't do that and I'd find that a bit dodgy. Decent spark with plenty of work will do this...

Putting in the first fix electrics, then getting a local spark to do the second, test and part P cert. I have: ~10m internal 6mm T&E from the fuse box to an external junction ~10m of 6mm SWA, partly clipped to a wall in PVC conduit and partly buried. Into the shed. Junction box and 3 double...

Cheers. It's just for general use, if I do anything more 'workshopy' wise I'll have sockets for additional lighting

It's 1800 X 700 X 45. Yeah I can lift it. They're hinges that are hidden in the door jam, not sure their technical name. It's got a single Yale deadlock already

bump

I have a 3m x 4m outside cabin room. Will a single 50W flurescent tube be sufficient or will I need more?

Hi, Just built my log cabin/gym/workshop. Scoping out internal walls and electrics now... Question is about the door. It's a simple door, top half georgian style 4 pane double glazed glass lower half wood. I'm thinking of two things: 1. Improving the door to reduce chances of dampness and...

Rock. ME. Hard place The tile edging looks good, I haven't seen that before. If I get it and my tiles aren't quite horizontal then I might struggle to use it. Also it's a 2.5m high section of tiles which means two bits of trim at each edge being seemles... The grout, I have some white left...

Tiled in my bathroom in two sides of a shower tray. The tiles stop so they are vertical to the shower tray edge. They alternate tile edge and half-cut tile all the way up... so the tiles went up, the grout when on, looks awesome. Then I realised I didnt used a tile trim. I'm obviously not...

I have a heated towel rail behind a door, a standard door stop isn't quite long enough off the skirting to stop the door handle knocking the chrome... Any ideas to avoid having to do a floor mounted door stop? I'm dreading the idea of drilling the tiles and would prefer a different option.

That's what the plumber is saying. Screen needs to be replaced... but who pays?

I haven't moved the arm... As I've noticed a chip in the glass right on the outside edge. I think I can flip it around so the chip is in the wall holder... TBC