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Look for barrel nuts and connector bolts http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/220856727203?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y&lpid=63&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=63&ff19=0

What part of the country are you in ??

Of course they did Yaaahoooo springs to mind with them From looking at the video you have nothing to worry about You have some slight settlement on the drain further in causing a bit of pooling but this is negligible and as seen from the front portion of the video ( as its clear) it not...

Yes in general they can be ran at 600 but you have several factors to take into consideration like the Length of span, the final floor covering. What internal walls are being built on them, loadings etc. to name but a few factors When this is decided you can do or get some calc's done that...

If you and your neighbour go dibs on the cost then that is the only way that Your wall to be could be deemed to be a party wall As it stands it would be Your Wall

Sorry to hear that Fingers crossed for you that things get resolved

LOL thought that would be the case

:oops: :oops: Glad it worked out for you

Do it properly would be my advice Strip it back, remove the damp materials. If necessary get a dehumidifier on the go for the walls Then redo it with appropriate materials of your choice

Soak it off but It will take longer than 24 hours to get most of it off Use a sanding disk on a grinder rather than a chisel for any bits left after scraping

I Don't think that you will get anywhere with the insurance company But that will all depend on the inspector that they send out. I would say this problem has been going on for at least a year if not more simply down to the state of the timber. I would however start looking now for...

How did you get on with neighbours after reading the replies from here LOL

If memory serves the Last One I did was 3 1/2 years ago and was in Cherry I made mine from veneered Ply and some solid timber for the lipping/nosing. Any Joinery shop near you would be able to as well . 15 steps and two landings , took 2 days to fit

I would leave the roof alone and instead make a hole through the plasterboard ceiling to see what is there first, You can always remove the plasterboard and insulate from the inside rather than opening up the roof

All they have done is got a Standard Stair tread, stained and varnished it then fixed it on top of their existing stairs . You should also note that on the Picture of the completed stairs (think it was Pic 10) that the top stair does not have the same treatment as the others for obvious...

I think that's a bit on the steep side TBH Between £250 and £300 would be a more realistic price . at least around my area it would be Get more quotes and take the average to give you a better idea of the going rate in your neck of the woods

Its your units so cut away if you want :evil: :evil: It will look odd though with the hob sitting over offset doors or drawers Some pics may help as there are plenty on here with experience to advise you for a better fix What wall units would be above the Hob??? Would any of them be...

Where the knots are. The timber can be rough and after planning it can have lots of little divots in the grain this is called tear out . Sanding obviously makes the wood smooth to the touch but it does not repair the divots( tear out) to repair this some companies use a filler often times its...

That looks like a filler has been used

If the planner/BCO does come out I honestly think he will have you move it . Don't be surprised if he also mentions handrail and balustrading