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The multimeter has a combined diode measurement and continuity test switch which is what I used.

Thanks for replies. 1. While two of the connections to the metal junction box have SWA glands, one of the connections does not have - see first photo and circled in red. All three connections to the metal junction box are armoured cable, but I fitted the one using the one in a red circle using...

Thanks! I have three more questions: 1. Why are all the earth wires joined to each other with insulating tape (in my first photo)? Shouldn't they be connected by a wago connector or something? What's the purpose of wrapping with insulating tape? 2. If the armoured cable in the garden is...

Thanks! That's a really neat way to do it. I'll give that a go tomorrow AM

I'll try to do this in the morning.

Thanks. How can I test if it is "earthed"? Is there a way to check if something is earther with a multimeter? What about if I added a plug socket to this circuit and used a regular £10 socket tester which tests that live, neutral and earth are there...would that be sufficient to know it is...

In my house's side passage I have a metal junction box just above the ground. The external lighting comes from this junction box. It has an armoured cable input from the house and then goes to two armoured cables, one feeds the front external lights, the other feeds the rear external lights...

thanks - I'll try this (and is basically in line with what i was thinking) and let you know how I get on!

The floor is screeded.

yes, should have been new underlay throughout. It almost feels like there is a gap in the underlay between two sections?

I had a terrible carpet installation a year ago or so. Horrendous tradesman. It is a wool loop carpet I have the following issues 1. the carpet is bumpy in places - see pics 1 & 2 2. I don't have threshold bars between rooms (as thought this would look better and what the carpet guy suggested...

I think my photos were a bit misleading - the grey board in the final photo - which I think was plasterboard - was removed as I told the builders at the time the edge looked too wide versus the edging around the rest of the landing.

Thanks for your help. I tried your suggestion of a (small flathead) screwdriver in the crack. It wouldn't push through. I did it in a couple of places - you can see the damage in the first pic below. Think the damage suggests MDF? Also I was able to locate some photos I took at the time of...

Hi there We relocated our staircase opening when we had a new staircase installed. The new staircase opening meant we removed a newel post where the old opening was and put a continuous banister in its place. The problem is where the newel post was originally located, the builders installed...

Given the gap is not the same the whole height, should I get 25mm backer rod (as 25mm is the widest part) and will I be able to easily compress the backer rod to say 15mm where the gap narrows? thank you!

Actually gap is 15-25mm (not the same width the whole way). Need it to be about 1300mm in height

For privacy

I tried to ‘hide’ a blind and make it look like it was coming from within the ceiling by covering it with MDF board which is flush with the wall which I then painted the same colour as the wall. There are cracks between the MDF and the plasterboard now - which I presume is because of heat...

There is a brick wall at the boundary between me and my neighbours house. This wall is made of two sections and there is a ~1.5 inch gap between the two sections - see photo. What’s the best way to fill this? Expanding foam? Thanks.

Thanks all - I’ll give the cling film route a go!