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It the plaster loose? If its soundly fixed then prime it first with acrylic primer,generally you should be ok fixing tiles that size with tub adhesive if you use a large notch,say 10mm but if they are heavy then go for powdered.

What type of timber is it,ply?studding timber? Prime it with acrylic primer then tank or if possible board over with 6mm backer.

I am currently in the process of building shed dormers on my bungalow. I have now run into a snag and wondered if anyone can offer advice/opinons. Its a flat roof and the drawing says "use celotex xr120 50mm cavity between joists with 1000gauge visqueen. I did this but when the inspector...

Not if you use the right size screw,plug and drill bit.Been tiling for three years (as a living) and always end up fitting towel rails,soap dishes toilet roll holders etc and never cracked one yet :wink: Oh and don't use the fixings in the pack they are never up to the job cheap rubbish!

If thats the case then you will have to use something like that strip in your link to get over the curve on the bath edge.I wouldnt use it on a new install myself but if fitted correctly it will last a while.

If the worktop is flat and fairly level then why not just work a whole tile off that then another row on top? In the pic it appears that the bottom tile has been cut? As for the window you need to start in the center wether thats a grout line or the center of a tile then work out from there.

It depends on the kind of tray,if it has upstands then the backers/pstr brd should sit on these and tiles in front. Its not a hard fix in either case,they just need to remove the boards on one side and and add some extra battoning then reboard as required.

That should be ok although I prefer a 10mmsq notch.

If your tiles are porcelain then Try some warm water and a stiff scrubbing brush,failing that try this stuff http://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/LFCRR1L.html

Use an acrylic primer not pva.Always tank in a shower.

Tiles that size need a powdered adhesive,I have used both multifix and greenstar but nothing over 300mmsq

Yes marmox are fine onto 22mm,dry lay the boards then fix down with a skim of flexi then screw down at 200mm centers.

Use aquapanel,well supported underneath with timbers.Also get a tanking kit,tape all the corners and use the kit as per instructions.

It is possible with a decent diamond blade in a small grinder,I've done it myself.Just take you time and you should be fine.Try a few practice cuts below the line you after.

You only need to tank in wet areas,something like this http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79333/Sealants-Adhesives/Building-Maintenance/Kitchen-Bathroom/Dunlop-Shower-Waterproofing-Kit

Yes you can tile onto plasterboard without skim,have a look here http://www.tiles.org.uk/help/answer-weight.shtml?hilite=weight

The temp on manual mixer is either hot or cold with no inbetween,pipes are right way round but have found that the cold is fed from the mains so assuming that there is an imbalance in the pressure.Would a thermostatic mixer cure this?? TIA

If your tiles are small then a 6mm notch is fine.Larger tiles need larger notches.

Not that Ive seen,any chance of a pic so we can better advise?

I am currently in the process of building a dormer extension and wondered if anyone has opinons on the best insulation? Kingspan,celotex,rocksilk? The working drawing mentions celotex but also says or other equal and approved insulation method. I would just like to make sure my money is...