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Give it a coat of acrylic primer first or use a self priming adhesive.

Backers.

On a lot of the kitchen floors I tile people have the skirting removed and a tile skirting fitted.

I use this stuff...

I agree with tic,dont tile onto chipboard,I would overboard the lot with backers.

I use backers all the time now,have been using them for about three years,plenty of repeat work at the properties as I do many types of work so I know the work is still sound. If backers are installed correctly they are fine.

No the insulation boards won't take the tiles,you will need to board over them with plasterbrd and you will need to fix through the plasterbrd and insulation into the blockwork.

Have a look here http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=FBYEIALCZFUM4CSTHZOCFGA?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=mapesil

As Tic says it depends on what's available to you regarding brand. I would use a flexible powdered adhesive,when you are fixing the tiles use a flat piece of timber or a grout float to press the mosaics in place,this will keep them nice and flat. Make sure you use a mosaic trowel too.

I never adhesive that way,I mix it by eye adding more adhesive or water as required.When its mixed in the bucket it should be firm enough to hold its shape if you furrow it with a trowel. Ive been told a consistencey of whipped cream. Are you mixing by hand or using a drill?

Just to add make sure its wbp ply and seal the edges and undersides before fitting.

You can either rip out the chipboard and replace with 18-25mm ply or if the boards are well fixed overboard with either 12mm wbp ply or 6mm backerboards.

If you silicone with no gap and then it gets wet often there is a possibilty that it will come away,by leaving a gap it allows you to push the silicone into it and gives a better water tight seal.

Purists :lol: I normally leave 1-2mm,especially behind the sink.

Floor tiles that are well laid should be strong enough to withstand what you have mentioned.Hollow spots/voids in the adhesive are what create weak points as there is no support.

I wouldn't want to tile over it,I've removed one and it was only bonded with grab adhesive.

Richard the op is only tiling a wc so not a wet area. Wellerman,the reason PVA is not advised by the tilers on here is because it breaks down when wet,its bonding properties are good. I never use it but I know some tilers that do,as it's a wc that your tiling I wouldn't worry but if you...

Maybe your not using it right tic :wink: Always found it ok in kitchens and wcs.

:roll: Hope your not slating unibond :lol: ,you will have Joe90 after you if your not careful..........haven't seen him on here for a while in fact since Gcol and Jeff disappeared..........you don't think they were multiple personalities of the person do you??

For that size tile use powdered adhesive. PVA, I never use the stuff,I always go for acrylic primer,would probably be ok in a wc though.