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OOPS!

what oil is this running on, 35 sec 0r 28 sec?

Sooted boiler is ALWAYS down to too much fuel/too little air. Having taken out the burner and cleaned it is insufficient; you need to clean out all the baffles and flueways and ensure that the air intake is clear and that the burner fan is clear. As long as the burner runs when clean, the tiger...

Are both rads off the same single 10mm feed? If so, you may be trying to get a quart out of a pint pot.

The manufacturers recommendation is for the pipe frost stat to be set at 25c ish. This means that the indoor circuit will be above this before the return reaches in the target temperature in the garage. In the past, where customers have baulked at the 'waste' of fuel, I have moved the pipe stat...

You need to start following circuits as already suggested by @Stuckinarut .

If it cuts out and restarts instead of running continuously and you are still warm, then you are saving. At a lower setting, the circulator is not clearing the heat in the heat exchanger so it cycles until return water lowers the boiler. As long as you are warm enough, boiler cycling will save...

What do you mean by testing? A quick couple of minutes would probably do little harm, but as the thermostats would not be active, longer running could be very detrimental, even dangerous.

Have you had a delivery of oil since the service? If so, you may have disturbed the sediment in the tank and sucked this through. You need to thoroughly purge the oil supply from the tank, through any filters (cleaning/replacing them ) and not forgetting the filter in the pump. All this should...

Anything 386K is expensive. The Glow plug lights a small reservoir beneath the thermocouple, and once that is hot, the ignition circuit is shut off and the main solenoid opens. It takes time for the flame to build up. You also need to ensure the flueways and fan are clear. Blocked flueways...

Have you checked the ignition transformer voltage? When flame established, does the current cease from the transformer? Either situation will overload the element and produce the result you have. Time to get the multimeter out.

If you want to try something other than replacement which would require draining down, scrape off the crud, loosen it slightly and clean out as much as possible, then pu several winds of ptfe round the exposed thread and retighten. This could last until the time of year is more favourable.

https://www.fireboxstoves.co.uk/product/arada-spares/OBSOLETEThermoco-SAA7480?srsltid=AfmBOoomoOzd0q4C5p50NJU51SzEeCUTNwMNfnWANACeBOSORY4vDU6i Have you tried these?

The pressure relief valve is leaking.

With your set up, a vacuum pump attached to the oil feed into the tiger loop would be most useful. They are reasonably priced here and consist of a 2 litre vessel to which a hose is connected to the pipe, and the vessel is then evacuated by a manual pump. Depending on the length and rise of your...

Many modern programmers will switch off the power when programmed to off.

'Adjusting the pressure' without knowing what to and balancing off the air supply is a recipe for a soot disaster.

Your old thermostat would have ranged between approx 50c to 80c. Decide what flow temp you want in your radiators and set your new unit to that. The old stat was a relatively coarse unit and would have cycled the boiler over a range of approx 10-15c, I can't see any specification for the ST3008...

Could the click be a pressure release valve operating? How is the pressure gauge reading? Is there any discharge from the valve?

If you buy a complete new gauge, I think you'll find that you can leave the tank fitting in the tank, with the tap turned off and the new valve fits onto it solving the pull to read problem and the gauge question. If you still want to use the old valve and just use a new filter then the best...