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you need to locate the studs in the wall and screw the bracket to them using 5mm x 70mm good quality wood screws. There should be a stud every 18 inches or so. you can find the studs by knocking lightly on the wall with your hand, you will notice the sound change when you hit something solid...

you could strip and varnish them but then they wouldnt match your laminate so might look strange, i know you said you dont want carpet but that might be your best solution. Unless you have solid wood or carpet anything painted or with a high gloss finish will just make the stairs slippery...

I am not a spammer i have made many spam free posts before i was only adding my advice Personnely i think the metal ones look better and thats the company i used only trying to be helpful if your that offended ill remove my post but dont see the difference between people posting links to...

just a thought rather than painting why not fit a metal cover, very easy and quick to fit and they look loads better. Thats what we did on our house when our door got damaged. here's where we got our's http://meterbox.co.uk/index.php

have you got a picture, hard to advice when we dont know what your garden looks like. in general big lumps are best removd using a mini digger if access and cost allows but smaller leveling jobs can just be done with a shovel and barrow

thanks for the quick reply, yeah all the bricks that have blown are in the top two courses by drip do you mean a grove in the underside of the coping to stop water tracking underneath? If so i dont think they do but i would have to check. The copings do overhang each side of the wall by...

About 4 years ago we built a retaining garden wall that holds back the garden behind our's which is about 800mm higher. We built using concrete blocks with fascia bricks in front and tied the two layers together with brick ties. Behind the concrete block wall we put drainage gravel in and left...

haha this did make me chuckle :lol:

sharp edge on laminate worktop would look naff because of the joint where the two pieces of veneer meet on the corner. If the moneys there granite all the way imo

Hi just saw your post, have you got your walls sorted yet? if not how are you planning on decorating them once filled ie paint, wall paper, or painted lining paper?

you would be better asking in the tiling forum not the painting and decorating forum. To be honest though when your asking questions like how to get the old tiles off it beggers the question about whether or not you should be attempting this work yourself. Tiling is fairly simple to do but...

lol at the expanding foam your going to need gallons of the stuff!! My thoughts were exactly the safe as big-all's you could easily bring the ceiling down plus make it impossible to access any wiring or plumbing should there be a problem, i agree with the above to be honest its not a good...

yep cross baton and then lay chipboard t&g loft boards across them. just a quick tip though your better off screwing the batons down rather than nailing or you might end up with cracks all over your ceilings below

you could look at diyplastering.co.uk i bought his dvd having never previously plastered anything and was able to skim a wall with very few imperfections. I imagine if i attended the guys course I would be able to skim walls to a near perfect level.

i think you can just overwrite them, it should give you the choice when you put the new maps on if there isnt enough room and if there is enough room it probably wont but then whats the point dumping the gb ones if you could have both

sounds like he didnt allow the paper to soak before hanging it, did he read the instructions as this would have advised how long it needed to soak for. If the wall paper is heavily patterned I dont think theres a lot you can do about it but if the area where the bubbles are is plain you...

the solf close mechanisms will probably be like a little piston that looks similar to this http://www.screwfix.com/p/salice-slow-close-door-hinges-white-100-x-50mm-pack-of-5/51625 you could try giving these a bit of Wd40 and a clean - they may have got gunged up with muck and grease. If this...

Hi what budjet you looking at for the pavers? Do you want standard block paves or one of the more luxary pavers marshalls do eg vintage range or drive line 50

right im not a tiler, far from it actually but was just loooking and thought could you not overboard the whole lot with say 6mm wbp ply and then tile from there or would there be to much of a step into the room if you did that?

you dont want to give it a good clean, you cant retile or fit a new bath, bog sink. Other than getting someone into do it for you i dont see what else can actually be done to improve it. Its a case of clean or replace really