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Thanks All. @Notch7 I'll consider full size ply stiffeners if all else fails. Firstly I was wondering about big L brackets as @big-all says. In hindsight I made a mistake with the framing. I rested the wall plate on top of the studs. I think bringing the studs to ridge height, and screwing into...

I think the main issue is the stud to wall plate/lintel connection. This is skew screwed. The sole plates are solidly attached to the floor using hammer fixings. Thinking some more, a ply or 6x1 gusset might work better as I could make a larger diagonal?

Hi, I am building a pent shed. Similar to a garage, the front face is going to be doors and very little else. Currently it's made from 2x4 columns/studs and a 6x2 wall plate/lintel. I've diagonally braced the sides, back and across the roof joists as usual. However the front is still a bit...

Thanks @noseall a very clear answer. Yes the gable overhang , obviously the other sides I will create an overhang with the rafter.

Hi, I'm building a pent roof shed. Wall plates on the long sides with birdmouthed rafters. Roof will be tiled with dry verge as I have spare. How would you do the overhang and what would it typically be? I was thinking a larger overhang is best, perhaps 150mm, as it keeps the cladding dry...

@deluxs agreed it doesn't need to be a clean break. I am more thinking about the sole plate being fixed and levelled onto the tiles, so if I mash up the tiles then the sole plate will come loose. Happy to be corrected though?

The pattern runs through, I can measure the tiles to the mm. Also where some tiles are laid at a slope (eg an edge at an angle to an adjacent tile) that is also carried through.

Scribing tool won't work in my experience, they don't break cleanly when stuck down. Multi tool with diamond blade and water squirt bottle is worth a try.

Any thoughts on hiring a glass saw like this one? https://www.wholesaleglasscompany.co.uk/shop/makita-cordless-glass-saw-cc-300-dwe-10-8v-2220.html

As you can see in the picture it seems the stud partition was built over the tiles, which are now coming up. Any suggestions on what to do? I was thinking of removing the skirting and using a grinder to cut the tiles as close to the plaster/ trim as possible. But that would cover the house in...

Ah thanks @robinbanks that makes sense @big-all no riving knife. I might have to re cut the strip but that's normal for a new blade.

I have a Titan mains track saw that takes blades of thickness (not kerf) roughly 2.1 to 2.6mm. I have bought a blade of thickness 1.7mm and can't clamp it down enough. Any reason why the track saw blades are thicker and I shouldn't shim? There seems to be a wider choice of the thinner blades...

Thanks @Hugh Jaleak I forgot to come back and update you. I did get it out in the end, I had to use mole grips and thought I'd break it. But it was ok. Smell was because some Lego was in the trap and causing all the water to run out, possibly by capillary action? Cleaned out the trap and now...

Thanks @foxhole how did you join them? Dowels and PVA? Did they need planing? I had assumed scaff boards would need drying and then resawing or some other edge finishing before joining. As @big-all said I would need to go for 1.5 boards. I don't have a table saw so would have to be track saw to...

Eh? 225 would be fine for the shelf but the shoe rack/bench needs to be at least 300 as that's hotter long my shoes are!

@big-all if I could get a wide stave furniture board I'd be happy but as you said they only come as narrow stave which doesn't give the rustic finish the boss wants.

@foxhole this kind of thing (both the shoe rack and the coat hooks): https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1383334608/rustic-reclaimed-wooden-coat-rack-coat?gpla=1&gao=1&utm_source=connexity&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_uk_google&utm_content=17367032517870146336811061187008005

Thanks @senfre_ . Looking for scaffold board type rustic but scaff boards are 225 and I need 300.

I would like to make some furniture from 300x38mm boards, like scaffold planks but wider. I've found them online as PSE pine, they seem to be a niche product, any experience of these boards? Do they cup/split? If not, if I buy 6x1.5 PSE, is it usually square enough to joint along the long edge...

It's a normal solid core pressed door so 32mm or 35mm?