Search results

Will do when I get in. May I ask what sections you'd like? As I have one of the enclosure from a distance when it was first done...

I've not yet had the drawing back yet. This was after an initial consultation and am still deciding whether to employ him for the entire work yet as I was quite taken back by this comment which is why I've asked for some advice on here.

The door isn't catching the screw, it's catching the trim that is screwed into the bottom. My apologies for the confusion, I didn't explain it very well & I can see why you think the screw is the problem. The biggest problem is the enclosure isn't very sturdy and due to the movement the...

Hi everyone I've had an architect come round to draw up some initial plans as I feel I won't get the same service if I used an 'all in one' loft conversion company He's come back to me stating the conversion will require SIX steel / RSJ beams?! Is this normal? I had several...

I have a fairly large frameless hinged door shower enclosure (1400x1000) My problem is that the door seal at the bottom catches a trim screwed into the tray each time I open or close the shower door, this in turn causes movements on both sides of the enclosure. The enclosure is sitting on...

I haven't received the formal plans back as yet but will post up when I do It's just that it's started making me doubt the architect as it's not been mentioned before by anyone else My property isn't hugely big at all either, 4-5 metres wide at the front and I'd say no more than 10 metres...

what material is under the laminate If's its concrete then self levelling compound will probably your easiest and quickest way around this, plus a bag of self leveling isn't alot these days If you've got floorboards / wooden joists then you may be on your knees for a while!

Hi everyone I've had an architect come round to draw up some initial plans as I feel I won't get the same service if I used an 'all in one' loft conversion company He's come back to me stating the conversion will require SIX steel / RSJ beams?! Is this normal? I had several others...

Not to worry Bernard, I did remove it when screwing it back it. Taylor- you did!

Looks as though my switch does match the specs of the dimmers previously posted. Incidentally, I currently have a 28w incandescent bulb and two 6w LED bulbs which meets the supposed 40w minimum load. I am still trying to get the 'compatible' lamps and try some alternatives to see where there...

I will post a pic when I'm back from work (Late) And probably why they discontinued with the 200 series - something I've found out recently & that their new series is 'supposedly' more compatible with more LEDs, however I do recall reading similar issues with the 400 series, but as it didn't...

The part number is JSJSLW200

It may well be, but why did the incandescent bulb work on it's own (28w)?

Yes I see your point now - that would then just lead to the bobs causing the dimmer the issue it seems. I am tempted to buy non approved 7w LEDs but it's the expense. Dimmable LEDs are quite expensive. This has to be one of the most frustrating DIYs I've ever had to encounter. I know...

Exactly. It could be one if either and as I said before it's probably both. Now the 'approved' lamps are 7w each, multiplied by the number of fittings I have (3) gives an apparent load of 21w. My Phillips only totalled to 18w. I read somewhere you need 20w minimum so we'll see with the new...

As you've probably realised, there is a potential catch here. If you got a higher wattage conventional (incandescent) bulb/lamp in order to test the 'minimum load' theory and it cured the problem, you wouldn't know for sure that this had resulted from increasing the load, or by revting to...

The Siemans dimmers are physically produced the same as the LightwaveRF dimmers. Siemans were the manufacturers initially - and they did produce quite a few - and from what I know LightwaveRF received enough funding to control manufacturing and costs better and thus produced the same dimmer...