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Waste of good copper? I'm considering £40 outlay for tube and £10 for tape, so not a big waste. Why don't you think it'll work? I thought there may be good reasons why people don't do it hence the post, but I haven't heard any yet. I've often noticed an accidental warm patch on timber and...

Ah yes, spreader plates are a good idea. On ebay you can buy copper foil, 1mm thick, 50mm wide, for £2.50/m (Guitar pick-up foil). 4 metres of that would be plenty and would greatly increase the effective contact area between the warm pipe and the tile adhesive.

My research found that UFH on timber floors has a water temp. ~55c. My rads are at 60c which isn't too far off, but yes I could put in a blender valve if need be. I don't see why I need a pump; the CH pressure should be fine for such a small area with 8mm bore pipe.

The flow can be reduced if need be by an inline tap where I connect it to the CH out/return. The temp. won't be controlled beyond that of my house's central thermostat. At the moment my kitchen has no heating and is slightly colder than the rest of the house. The plan is to bring it more in...

I'm about to refit my kitchen, replacing a wooden floor with porcelain tiles. I've had what I think to be an ingenious idea and I'd like to run it by everyone. After laying and securing 18mm ply I plan to cut a 10mm (deep & wide) channel with my router across the floor in a wavy pattern and...

Quick related question: My kitchen is on the 1st floor: suspended floor with oak T&G 18mm surface and chipboard underlay (not sure of chipboard thickness by I suspect 18mm). I want to replace with 600x600mm porcelain tiles. Any advice? From what I've read I think probably pull the whole...

Good point foxhole. I cut the underlay (which was 5mm) an inch short of the skirting, and since you'll have a gap from the wall (for expansion) there is enough room to slide the boards down into the gap and pull towards you and then across to meet the adjacent board. The very last board was...

I just laid a oak T&G floor under existing skirting by cutting ~1 inch off the bottom of the skirting using a reciprocating saw and a chisel. I learnt quite early on that it was worth it to spend more time with the reciprocating saw and rely less on the chisel since the latter may split the...

I'm looking to float an engineered oak veneered floor over concrete. I haven't pulled the carpet up yet but the concrete is likely to be in good condition and level. I plan to use my reciprocating saw to cut off the bottom of the skirting boards in situ to hide the expansion gap. For a 8'x17'...

I did just that and it's looking good. I'll emulsion it tomorrow and expect it to be invisible once dried thx a lot

I've cut a channel in my wall to contain a mains lead and HDMI cable for a projector. The HDMI cable is quite thick so I've cut down into the cement render, so about 12mm at its deepest. Looking at B&Q I'm not sure whether one-coat plaster or finishing plaster would be best. I'm guessing...

So, last night I put the SDS chisel to the wall to see how easily the plaster could be removed (leaving the render intact). I was so surprised at how easy it was I got stuck in and removed the plaster from half of the wall in an hour, although it took another 90 mins to clear up. I'll finish...

The tiles are the faux slate ones which are quite heavy. The walls are breeze block, with a layer of cement render, and then plaster over the top (I know this from cutting a channel for a light switch). I was thinking about just removing the plaster if possible and tiling onto the render...

Wouldn't a grinder with a wire wheel make even more mess than an SDS chisel? At least with the latter it's going to come off in chunks rather than the whole lot being dust

Some were saying PVA would help adhesion, others were saying it would inhibit it... chalk and cheese. The argument was regardless of dry or wet environment. I have an SDS drill so I could start to disrupt the plaster surface sufficiently to provide a good key, and if it's coming off easily I...

This is exactly what I was talking about. The other forums descended into an argument about whether PVA sealer should be used or not

Hi, I want to create a feature wall in my living room. The walls are currently smooth plaster painted white, all in good condition, approx 6 years old. I was aiming to tile over with white Cararra split face tiles, so quite weighty. Is this doable, and what's the best approach? My online...

cement particle board... that's very helpful, thank-you. I foresaw having to explain how fire-resistent isn't the same as non-combustible. Asking for cement particle board should avoid that discussion

I'll have a ring around tomorrow. b&q, wickes and screwfix have always been my first port of call, and if they haven't had something quite specific I resort to the internet. I'm just really surprised that those 3 suppliers don't stock a non-combustible plasterboard substitute, so I thought I...

Actually I don't think I can use fire-proof plasterboard, according to this thread. That's why supalux and promatect were on my radar http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1855590