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It's antique, what can you do?

I think an architrave box may be borderline too wide - besides, knockout in the top or bottom of an architrave box is less than 20mm, so difficult to connect to that 20mm conduit. I hated it at first, but perhaps the existing set-up IS best, once the box lid is filled over. Personally, I would...

Lots of old wall lights were simply 'hooked' onto a nail or screw.

A blank plate doesn't create a zone? Is that because the blank plate could be removed without touching any electrical connections, and plastered over? Out of interest, would a flex outlet (one that hasn't had the outlet bashed out) used to connect wires be acceptable?

Fair comment - I wouldn't have one. I'm not having some sensor controlling me.

Maintenance free junction box is ideal. But are you certain those cables don't feed something else further down as well?

Easiest way - add an extra socket next to each of the existing ones - and ensure all distances are correct. They only need to be spurs. You can never have too many sockets.

You would get a light fitting, with a built-in sensor.

As long as you don't paint over a wet or damp surface, it will be ok.

I remember Ban All Sheds...

Worth a look. You could consider some form of movement sensor. Or join the cable somehow - which won't be very easy if you don't want anything to be seen.

It's unusual (but not uncommon) for the cable not to be in round conduit. Have a look behind the bathroom light fitting, and see if there is a round box embedded in the ceiling, with conduits coming out of it. I'm only suggesting this because of your theory that the pull switch may have one...

If you can double over, and there's room in the terminal, do it.

It's for the light. The cable is buried in the plaster, and it's not in conduit.

The op has already said he/she wants to put the switch on the outside.

Is the existing switch cable in a tube, running to the light? I ask this because joining onto the old cable is not ideal, and it would be a better job if there was a continuous new cable from the light to the new switch position.

This is the trouble with water-based. Sometimes you can put 10 coats on, and you can still see the blemish. How do you feel about using solvent based undercoat, possibly all over, to get a solid even covering, then back to the water based? Or you could try a water based stainblock type primer...

Can't see any issue with this. Was the decking ever painted/stained with anything BEFORE the Ducksback?

Is the paint solvent based or water based?

Yes, it's a cable system used to put in walls and ceilings, typically on concrete blocks of flats and offices. I think the advantage of it was you could put in straight in screed and plaster without further protection. (Bit surprised to see it under a wooden floor, but then again, why not?)