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Is the cable at the fan flex, or T+E? Are we REALLY certain that the green and yellow wire IS switched live, and not an earth that someone has wrongly put in the switched live terminal? Doesn't quite compute to me.

What kind of finish are you going to put on the shed? A solid colour? Or stain? I can't see a major problem with a water-based solid colour going over knotting solution. If you're using a solid colour finish, you need to put something on the knots. I imagine you're not going to want to wait a...

Just sand it down by hand. What, worried it will take too long? Then do it quickly. The finest piece of advice ever given to me. How I didn't throttle him, I'll never know...

I would just do it.

Is it wider at the bottom, and gets narrower towards the top? Looks like the shape of the chimney void. And it looks a bit like a brickwork pattern.

No, I used/use it. And oval conduit under floors - you don't even have tape or tie the cable to that.

Long ones (about a metre). It will drive you insane screwing together twice as many rods.

A lot will depend on how the electrics were left before demolition.

Fair enough. Fair enough. I haven't stated that spurs in 2.5mm2 is unsatisfactory on a cooker circuit. Written 6mm2 because it's the commonest size of cable used for cooker circuits. Also wanted to avoid writing 'or 4mm2' every time because it's monotonous. Exactly. If you mean running a...

Assuming you have a 6mm2 circuit with a 30 or 32 amp protective device, you would run 6mm2 to the first socket, then from there 2.5mm2 to the second socket. OR, 6mm2 to a 30 amp junction box, and one 2.5mm2 from jb to first socket, another 2.5mm2 from jb to second socket. OR just do all in...

The fuse in the plug protects the flex coming out of the plug. The 6mm2 cable forming the cooker circuit, and little bit of 2.5mm2 between the two sockets, is protected by typically a fuse or mcb or rcbo at the consumer unit - usually 30 or 32 amp. If you're worried about the piece of 2.5mm2...

I wouldn't rely on the aluminium wood primer for the knots, I would use a separate knotting solution first. I have always found the aluminium wood primer to give longer lasting results on weathered surfaces.

Sand every scrap of wood. If you are insisting on using oil-based paint, prime all bare wood with oil-based aluminium wood primer.

I would choose to plug the ovens into single sockets, each wired directly to the ring, as opposed to spurs.

You need some kind of stain or dye that you can use on the bare bits that matches the existing colour almost instantly - as many stains will have the correct colour on labelled on the tin, but looks unsightly when applied on bare wood. And you don't want to have to put 30 coats on just to get...

Not aware of such a thing. Presumably appearance is important here?

We had two of these. Circa 1989.

I would install the cable myself first, and let the installers connect it up - if they are happy with it. They will be pleased you have done half of their job for them. As long as you it install it correctly, they shouldn't object - they just want to get home. Make sure you are there on the day...

All depends how much damage you want to do to your walls. If you don't want to chase your walls, and can re-use existing wiring and old conduits, then use three plate wiring with a junction box above one of the downlighters. No reason why a system can't be a combination of 'feed the switch'...

I'm trying to think why the neutral wire would be heftier than the live wire. Has the cable/wire been joined somewhere?