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Bit late to the party but try and find a local supplier of an S2 and see how it compares in contrast to mixing with additives. I would personally use a high end S2 such as the BAL Single part Fastflex which is costly but a more than adequate adhesive. Or I would use 6 mm Hardiebacker tiled over...

Warmup Prowire for me. Fix it to the screed and tile over it. Just make sure your builder uses a plastic trowel.

Lee has it to a tee with the PVA explanation. And use a powder based adhesive too as they are much more reliable than tubbed. And don't use Wickes. Or unibond. Use proper stuff like Ardex, BAL, Tilemaster etc. I would recommend tanking your wet areas too but for that you must use slow set if...

Lee has it right, cleaning will be a nightmare but it will also be a nightmare on ceramic split face effect too.

Sure the residue wasn't bitumen? If so then that's your problem. Secondly, I've been advised by various people before (manufacturers) that polyurethane isn't suitable for tiling as it can't bond to anything so in that section I would rip out the polyurethane and put down PTB Fibre with AD1...

If you haven't primed the back and sides then rip it out and put Hardie in as Vinn suggested as it's waterproof. Skip cheap tubbed gear and use powder adhesive and a decent grout.

Agree with Lee here. Your also much better off using cement board like Hardie backer. And for the record, you can NOT d and d Hardie according to their leaflets. Screws and adhesive at 300mm centres.

Yeah the ptb fibre is a gem to use. Handy reference on the back for mixing and prep too. If the flooris relatively good then you could try pouring it? It is pourable after all.

PVA isn't a suitable primer for tiling but I'm not too sure about for slc. The baton idea sounds good and I personally can't think of a reason not to. But why not just use a thick bed adhesive to build up the dips? I'm using PTB Fibre for some bits at home sheer ly because of its rapid set even...

No personal experience with Tilemaster as I've only used BAL Micromax2 and the occasional Mapei stuff.

What was the date on the bag? Most manufacturers use the date made as opposed to a use by date and it's caught out a few people before.

If I caught him doing that then I would give him the boot with no pay and an invoice for the tiles he wasted. Don't replicate the method you saw mate. Wall tiling should be the same principle as a floor. Powder, full coverage and bb for larger tiles.

That looks poor. Get him back in to redo.

New wheel is your best bet. Double check the breaker is in good nick. You can order the breakers from the Web and I know a buddy of mine gets his Rubi bits from Topps Tiles.

Have the exact same issue where I work. Some muppet drilled holes into a pipe which is above the waste flow under the concrete. Foul smell can be lethal at times but others it's fine. Plumbers came out and described exactly as Vinn has.

Clear tour cookies, cache and history. Run Malware software to look for bloat ware and adware. If this doesn't improve it then it might be because your inbox is very full. Also take into account that some tablets open up mobile versions which load very quickly on powerful devices.

Vitrex make a few but not sure off the top of my head where to pick them up anymore.

Double check you haven't disabled them by accident. Failing that, check to see if the device is actually detecting them.

Have you bumped it? Being brand new I would personally exchange as faulty.

Micromax2 Sealant stayed white and didn't rot for me in my last place. Was a poorly installed window ledge that didn't drain and caused a leak but no more issues after using that. Dow Corning is great stuff as well.