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Thought I’d quickly double-check to put my mind at ease. This is a photo of the cable currently running up in the loft across to the bathroom…

thanks, that's put my mind as ease. In that case I'll order a Hager 50a type b RCBO and fit it myself (y) Think I'll go with the 10.5kw shower rather than the 9.5kw option, as apparently they work better during the winter months when the cold mains supply often comes into the house at just...

I just would like to know if changing one RCBO for another RCBO is Part P notifiable work. If it is, then I'll probably get a spark to do it...if it's not notifiable, I'll do it myself. This is what I found online.... Notifiable electrical work Because of the safety risks associated with...

It seems to be definitely notifiable if you switch from an MCB to RCBO, but can't seem to get clarification if changing from one RCBO to another is notifiable or not, as it's not actually changing the protective device of the actual circuit...but then I'm not an electrician, so I can't say this...

fair point! :-) I guess ultimately I'm going to need that RCBO swapped out regardless (whether that be the 40a I have, or a new 50a) - can I swap them myself (non-notifiable) or do I need to get someone in?

Our old Triton T80 7.5kw shower is due an upgrade. We've had it over 10 years now, but it's never been particularly powerful, and also it tends to randomly go cold mid-shower for 15 seconds, before suddenly ramping up to scalding hot for another 15 seconds before resuming normal temperature...

Funny enough that was my original plan, to keep the original outdoor one, and add this new indoor one so that I’d have both options, however it occurred to me that there’d be a conflict between the two in certain situations. The outdoor switch has three options (open/close/stop) and if open is...

thanks, this is what I've ordered: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09Q2S4FPS/?th=1

ah ok, so like this?

thanks, I'll grab some from CEF later (https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/2326740-2-5mm-5-core-tuf-sheathed-cable-black-cut-length-sold-by-the-mtr) Not sure what I'd connect the left-over wire to though.... based on using 4-core + earth, this is what I imagine...

I decided to "upgrade" the switch to a fancy one that includes Amazon Alexa so that we can say "Alexa, open awning", etc, but noticed this new one requires the neutral wire. Would the following change to the wiring be correct?

Am about to have the living room redecorated including walls plastered, and thought I’d take the opportunity to do something about the radiator pipes that run horizontally just above the skirting along the living room wall. Ideally I’d like to bury them in the wall, but am very nervous about...

just tried it and it worked! :giggle:(y) Thank you both, really appreciate it! This forum (and the people on it!) are a real god-send at times! Cheers, and have a great weekend!

thanks Pete, I think what's confused me is that Primrose show all wires going to their own brand of awning switch (which I didn't purchase) which then goes to mains power. The Schellenberg switch was half the price so went with that instead. So do I only have the live and the black wire going...

I've just installed a new full-cassette motorized awning from Primrose awnings. It seems to retract ok, but when I try to extend the awning outwards, it's making a buzzing noise and blowing a fuse when I try to extend it. I spoke to Primrose, and they're telling me I need to confirm it's been...

wired everything up over the weekend, but am getting some errors: System Alerts: Panel Lid Tamper (yep, the lid is off the 64-w :) ) Confirm Devices (possibly the Texecom Connect SmartCom?) EXP 1,1 Tamper (I'm guessing because the 64-w jumper on the right between the two aerials is in...

Got ya! thanks again, think I'm ready to give this a go!

Also, just been looking through the manual, from what I can understand, in my particular setup, I'd set the zones as follows: z1 (Fault Relay - Front of House Sounder) Zone Type = 12 Auxiliary Wiring Type 8 - WD Monitor z2 (Tamper Relay - Front of House Sounder) Zone Type = 13 Tamper z3...

Thanks, genuinely really appreciate it! Ok I think I'm good to go then I'll swap out the 8-core with 12 core and set it up as follows: Do I need to join Aux connector to Fault connector on the 64-w control panel if it's not being used? Same question for Tamper (C) on both the bell...

Still a bit confused about the MSW thing on the sounders though.... so I don't need to wire MSW2 on the front sounder to MSW1 on the rear sounder at all?