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vanity units can be made wider by using 'fillers' from the same range and a custom length top. we've used them at work. do not be put off by not finding one the exact size. otherwise, building your own frame is very easy and probably much cheaper than buying a ready made vanity. just frame...

I think you'll be fine. Isolate the shower and the 'tap/valve' should come off (pictures of it would help determine how) Strip all tiles, remove shower tray. Stripping tiles may damage platerboard/walls but that shouldn't add too much to cost even if you had to re-board. Tank walls with BAL...

i'd probably mount it as normal but cut off the right hand end so it touches the right hand wall. i don't think anything you do will look 'perfect'

looks like tidy work, interested to see finished pictures.

1) Rip everything out 2) Paint walls 3) Get carpet professionally cleaned 4) Buy some cheap furniture (IKEA, Argos... etc) Think about what you need storage for and buy appropriate furniture. If you can't afford it all at once, buy bit by bit. I would expect all that to be possible for...

I can't see how you'll fix that to any kind of standard without removing the whole lot, redoing pipework into the wall and tiling again. anything else would look awful. it amazes me that someone would think that was acceptable.

Possibly posting in the wrong forum so sorry about that. It's getting pretty warm the last couple of weeks so I've bought a portable aircon unit which does a good job of cooling my bedroom before I go to bed. It has a vent pipe which I've so far had poked out of an open window. This isn't...

just finished my wetroom but may have made a mistake. the whole room is fully tanked with a bal wp1 kit on all walls and an impey water guard kit (which, for the record is great) on the floor. the mistake(?) is that i've grouted on the internal corners of the shower and the join between...

i'm no expert but my advice to you would be to get multiple quotes from local tradespeople. if they all come out similar then it's probably a fair bet that it's a fair price. if they differ wildly, then you have to make a call based on their previous work and how you get on with them. i don't...

i actually just bought a load of these from topps at the weekend. they do the bevelled edges in gloss but also non-beveled in glose and matt. pretty sure they had a gloss black

i'd have tanked that shower area before you tiled. nice work though, congrats

Hi, Im installing a wetroom and would like some advice on which adhesive/grout i should use. walls will be knauf aquapanel and tanked with bal wp1. floor is wbp ply tanked with an impey kit. i've heard bal adhesives and grout are good but their website seems to suggest that more than...

so would you recommend a water resistant tile backer (hardibacker) over a waterproof tile backer (wedi). to answer your previous question, im not sure what it is my floors made of (i'm no builder) but it looks like green mdf. just your bog standard flooring i guess. It's 22mm same as the...

Thanks for the reply. I've had to rip out a shower before because the installer hadn't properly waterproofed the area and since then I see no point in not tanking. At the very least, it's £60 for a Bal kit on top of standard plasterboard and even going 'all out' doesn't break the bank when...

not sure what you mean, from what i've read on this forum all grout does leak eventually and should not be considered as the main protection for your walls. This is why tanking is a must for all showers/wetrooms. I was also under the impression that tanking systems like the Bal kit were 100%...

Hi, I'm having a small wet room installed in my loft (new conversion) and am choosing all the components for the shower area. the walls are 12.5mm plasterboard, the floors are 22mm thick on wooden joists. My plan currently is to use a Impey shower former (22mm will sit flush with...