Search results

Open stairs, with no handrail. I guess not located in the UK then :)

To be specific for their IT range of kitchens for the 400mm cupboards B&Q only offer a draw/door pack that supports one draw. You could buy more draw/door packs and just use the draw fronts but then they don't come to the correct height. Online kitchen suppliers won't sell me draw fronts that...

They only do door packs that include a single draw for 400mm wide cupboards. By making my own draw fronts I can have more draws...

That is utter rubbish. The rule of thumb is 15% of the heat will be lost through a suspended timber floor to space outside the thermal envelope of the house. That is why current building regulations in Scotland at least require 100mm equivalent of fibreglass insulation. From personal...

Fitting a new kitchen and B&Q only allow for one draw in there 400mm cabinets. As this was going to leave very few draws in the kitchen I decided I could fix this by making my own draw fronts by cutting down full sized doors with a router. The style of the kitchen has continuous profile with 2mm...

Interesting, as I have never seen anything like it before. What I don't understand is how they got such a smooth finish on the render. It has the surface smoothness of a skimmed plaster wall, where as all the cermet renders I have seen are rather rough to the touch in comparison. I would...

Sure Shows a section of the wall with the "concrete" dado rail, with mostly stripped "concrete" wall below. Bit left to do before the tiling starts. The patch of plaster to left is from removal of old central heating controls and the one to the right from bricking up a hatch. The...

Been stripping my kitchen out for a replacement. Turns out that the bottom half of the walls are what from the hardness must be concrete. However it is very smooth almost polished finish. Then about half way up the wall is run in the same "concrete" finish a dado rail effect. Above this it is...

Google it a bit more, you will find reports of professionals that have tested their granite worktops and then promptly had them removed. Granite produces randon, and on average a lot more so than other stone materials. The issue with radon is you breath it in, which makes the dose you get...

It is not utter rubbish. All granite will introduce radon gas, some more than others and there is no testing of it, Some work tops emit dangerous levels of radon. Not worth the risk. I would also point out that I don't cook with gas either, though that is for other reasons such as the noise...

Can I ask what is with the fashion for introducing radon generators into your house? Speaking as someone with training in radiation protection you would not get me installing a granite work surface if you paid me.

Save yourself a bunch of time, and get better insulation; buy 100mm celotex/kingspan, cut into strips feed through loft door, lay over joists and place loft boards over the top. That way you will get 270mm equivalent of insulation which is the current recommended level. The celotex also adds...

That would be stretching it a bit. Get some 38x63mm CLS and screw it to the existing 4x2" joists either side. Then use some 150mm screws to screw the 100x100mm legs to the CLS and 4x2", repeat to hold the joists down. You would be using a flush cut bit like this...

That's because you have not done it yet :-) From personal experience of doing it both ways cellotex is by far the easiest method, and I would never contemplate doing it the extra joists way again. As you have already laid the 200mm of fibreglass technically option B is the only one you can...

Having boarded out three lofts now, my recommendation is to remove the extra insulation from the area you are going to board, lay 100mm cellotex/kingspan down and just lay loft boards over the top. It is way way quicker than adding extra joists, and does not reduce the height as much as mineral...

That I know, for gas pipe through an exterior wall, the inside. Common sense really, if there is a leak better it goes outside than builds up inside. For interior walls the open end is supposed to be the most used room. I was just looking for a recommendation as to a brand that would be ok to...

I was going to seal around a number of sleeved copper pipes where they go through the wall (mixture of gas and water) but noticed the clear silicone I was about to use said not to use with copper. That leads to what sealant should one use?

I think you miss the point, which is at some point there is limit at which you don't need more of said quantity in computing for ordinary usage. So if your computer had 640TB of RAM that would be an amount of RAM that nobody is ever going to need on a desktop. If you can come up with a use...